Bewerley Industrial Heritage Trail: Walk Guide from Pateley Bridge

Walk the Bewerley Industrial Heritage Trail to Discover Nidderdale’s Mining History

Begin your Bewerley Industrial Heritage Trail walk at the Nidderdale Museum on King Street, Pateley Bridge (HG3 5LE). The museum stands opposite St Cuthbert’s Church. Head downhill along King Street, passing the Nidderdale AONB offices and St Cuthbert’s Primary School on your right. Continue until you reach the B6265, the main road through the centre of Pateley Bridge.

Turn right and cross the bridge over the River Nidd. Stay on the main road, heading as if towards Grassington. When you reach The Royal Oak, take the road on the left, signposted for the Bewerley Park Centre. Follow this road uphill and through the village of Bewerley.

As you leave the village, Bewerley Grange Chapel appears on your left. It’s a peaceful spot and worth a short visit. A little further on, turn right onto Peat Lane. After just under a quarter of a mile, take the next right, following the public footpath sign for Haver Garth. Almost immediately, turn right again onto the path to Fishpond Wood.

Follow the track to the pond, then turn left and walk along its southern edge. Cross the footbridge and continue straight on to exit the wood. Just before the gate, turn left at a yellow waymarker on a short wooden post. Go through the gap in the drystone wall and climb the grassy bank, aiming for White Wood Farm in the far left-hand corner of the field.

On reaching the barn attached to White Wood Farm, go through the gate and turn right. Follow the stony track, keeping an eye out for the yellow waymarkers marking the Bewerley Industrial Heritage Trail. The track climbs steadily uphill and is signposted to Havergarth View. Pass Havergarth Glamping on your right and continue to Moor View Farm.

Walk through the farmyard and keep going along a broad grassy path, still following the waymarkers. At Gillbeck Farm, turn right up the steps, then left to remain on the trail. Cross a large open field towards a distant farmhouse. Use the stile on the right-hand side of the farmhouse to cross the drystone wall and follow the path, which soon joins a tarmac lane.

Turn left along the lane. A short distance ahead, leave the road by taking the path on your right. Continue across several fields, heading west for around half a mile, until you reach a quiet tarmac road. Turn right and follow it for almost another half mile. The entrance to Toft Gate Lime Kiln is on your right. Directly opposite, on the left, is the path to The Coldstones Cut.

Visit the Lime Kiln first, then follow the stony track uphill to reach The Coldstones Cut. After exploring the site, retrace your steps back downhill. About halfway down, go through a gate on your right. A semi-circular footpath follows the wire fence for just over three-quarters of a mile. Keep the fence close on your right throughout.

The footpath draws near to a broad quarry road. Stay with it a little longer, until you reach a wooden public footpath signpost. Turn left here, cross the road, and climb over the stile on the opposite side. Continue to follow the yellow waymarkers for the Bewerley Industrial Heritage Trail.

Walk for about a third of a mile across open moorland, passing Tewit Farm, until you meet the main road, Duck Street Lane. Cross straight over and follow the public footpath signposted to Galloway Pasture. The next section can be difficult to follow, so having a compass to hand is a good idea. The path is faint and may disappear in places.

You’ll need to head west at first, then gradually north-west, for roughly two-thirds of a mile across grassy pastureland. Eventually, you’ll come to a series of grassy spoil heaps and a large bowl-shaped hollow in the ground. At this point, a more defined moorland track appears. Turn left and follow it in a north-westerly direction for about three-quarters of a mile until you reach the B6265 at Greenhow Hill.

Cross the road to a row of terraced houses, one of which is named Prim Gap House. Take the path to the right of the terrace, signposted to Cockhill, and continue past Prim Gap Farm. Head downhill in a north-easterly direction for around a quarter of a mile to reach Far Side Farm.

Just before the farm, the path splits. Bear left, following the yellow waymarkers for the Bewerley Industrial Heritage Trail. Pass another farm, Low Far Side, on your left, then continue down through the valley. Gill Beck flows below you on the left-hand side.

At the valley bottom, you’ll arrive at a wide open area scattered with spoil heaps – this is the site of the Cockhill Lead Mines. Ahead, you’ll see a single-storey stone building with a tiled roof. Take the wide stony track running along the left-hand side of the building, past the remains of an old smelting mill. The track then climbs the left side of the valley.

After about half a mile, it bends to the right, then quickly left. Stay with the directional arrows for the Industrial Heritage Trail and continue for another quarter of a mile. At a T-junction, you’ll meet the Nidderdale Way. Turn right and follow it downhill, crossing Brandstone Dub Bridge.

Remain on the Nidderdale Way. When you reach the tarmac road at Round Hill and Low Hole Bottom, turn left at the public bridleway sign. The next part of the Bewerley Industrial Heritage Trail is a simple one-mile walk east along a quiet country lane.

You’ll pass the holiday cottage at Riggs Byre and continue until you reach a wooded area on your right. Here, turn left, still following the trail waymarkers. Immediately after, turn right and walk along the edge of the fields for about half a mile, bringing you to The Old Brewery at Bridgehouse Gate.

Turn right, then immediately left, following the wooden sign for the public footpath. This leads you to the B6265. Turn left and head into the centre of Pateley Bridge. Cross the River Nidd and keep walking straight ahead up the High Street.

Look out for The Oldest Sweet Shop in England. Just after passing it, turn left onto Church Street, signposted for the Nidderdale Museum. This final stretch takes you back to your starting point, completing the Bewerley Industrial Heritage Trail.

Bewerley Industrial Heritage Trail: Distance, Duration, Statistics

Recommended Ordnance Survey Map

The best map to use on this walk is the Ordnance Survey map of Nidderdale, reference OS Explorer 298, scale 1:25,000. It clearly displays footpaths, rights of way, open access land and vegetation on the ground, making it ideal for walking, running and hiking. The map can be purchased from Amazon in either a standard, paper version or a weatherproof, laminated version, as shown below.

About the Bewerley Industrial Heritage Trail

The Bewerley Industrial Heritage Trail is a circular route that explores the rich industrial past of Nidderdale. Covering a distance of around 10 miles, the trail links key sites associated with lead mining, lime production, and stone quarrying. It offers a fascinating insight into the working lives of those who once toiled across this now tranquil landscape.

The trail was created with the support of Bewerley Parish Council and the Nidderdale AONB’s Community Paths Initiative. It was funded in part by English Heritage and the DEFRA Aggregates Levy Sustainability Fund. Today, the route is waymarked throughout and follows public rights of way, with just a short section on a permissive path. There’s also a shorter five-mile option that begins from the Toft Gate car park.

Lead mining around Greenhow has a long history, dating back at least 800 years. Roman lead ingots discovered nearby suggest the practice may have begun even earlier. In 1151, Byland and Fountains Abbeys were granted land and mineral rights in the area. By 1363, lead from Nidderdale was being transported to Windsor Castle.

In medieval times, the land was worked in small plots called ‘meers’, each miner responsible for staying within their allotted area. But lead was so valuable that ownership disputes—even riots—were not uncommon. As demand grew, mining became more organised, with larger companies leasing extensive tracts of land and using mechanical equipment powered by horses and waterwheels.

At Cockhill, once one of the most productive lead mining areas in the Dales, miners built smelting mills, washing floors, and ore-crushing facilities. Although many of these buildings have disappeared, the land still bears scars and structures that tell the story of the industry’s heyday.

Lime burning also played a major role in Nidderdale’s development. Before the 1850s, lime was used locally for field treatment and mortar. But the arrival of the railway at Pateley Bridge transformed it into a commercial business. At Toft Gate, one of the largest Victorian lime kilns in the area still stands, a testament to this once-thriving trade.

Ore hearth smelting replaced the earlier bale smelting method in the 16th century. Here, a mixture of lead ore, coal, and peat was heated on a workstone while air was pumped in using waterwheel-driven bellows. When molten, the lead ran into moulds to form ingots or ‘pigs’.

Processing ore was tough and repetitive work. Crushing and separating the lead-rich rock was once done entirely by hand. Later, cast iron rollers and water-powered crushers took over. The finer ore was then washed in wooden tanks known as hotching tubs.

The landscape at Moorhouses, Coldstones Hill, and Greenhow is littered with old quarries where limestone, sandstone, and slate were once extracted. Coldstones Quarry is still active today. Visitors can observe the workings from a dedicated viewing platform as they walk the trail.

Interpretation panels were originally installed at key points along the route to help explain the historical features, but sadly, almost all of them have now been damaged or have disappeared. Fortunately, much of the history survives in local records and publications—and in the features that remain visible on the ground.

You can view the original document that inspired this ‘about’ section on my website here:

https://www.paulbeal.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/bewerley-industrial-heritage-trail-walk-guide-from-pateley-bridge-00044.pdf

Bewerley Industrial Heritage Trail: My Photos

The village of Bewerley, just outside Pateley Bridge, does not officially form part of the Bewerley Industrial Heritage Trail. However, I choose to extend my walk slightly by passing through the village, which gives me the chance to visit Bewerley Grange Chapel. In my opinion, this small detour is definitely worthwhile.

Bewerley Grange Chapel is a remarkable and historic place of worship, nestled in the heart of Bewerley. It was built in 1494 under the direction of Marmaduke Huby, Abbot of Fountains Abbey, and originally formed part of a monastic grange established by the abbey.

Although the Dissolution of the Monasteries in the 16th century brought many changes, the chapel remained in use. In 1674, Dame Mary Yorke, widow of Sir John Yorke, purchased the manor of Bewerley. Four years later, in 1678, she granted the chapel for use as a school. Initially supported by local landowner Richard Taylor, the school came under the care of the Yorke family around 1737. It stayed open for 140 years, offering tuition in English, Greek, and Latin.

The building was restored in 1831, at which point the school closed. By the late 19th century, the chapel had been converted into a gardener’s store, and the former schoolhouse became a private residence.

In July 1965, following a further phase of restoration, the chapel was rededicated by the Bishop of Ripon. It remains a place of worship to this day and is held in deep affection by its congregation and the many visitors drawn to its peaceful and spiritual atmosphere. The building was designated Grade II listed in 1967 and was previously recorded as a Scheduled Ancient Monument.

The chapel and the adjoining former schoolhouse form a long, south-facing range built from gritstone, topped with a graduated stone slate roof. The chapel is single-storey with two bays, and its 19th-century porch likely incorporates 16th-century stonework in its plinth and gable coping. The porch shelters a recessed two-light mullioned window, which features four-centred arched heads and a hood mould. Additional architectural details include a three-light window on the south side, two two-light windows on the north, and another three-light window at the east end.

Relief carvings decorate the exterior. The initials ‘M H’, representing Marmaduke Huby, appear between the windows on the south wall, while the Latin motto Soli Deo Honor et Gloria (‘To God alone be honour and glory’) is inscribed above the east window. A small bellcote is mounted on the east gable.

The attached house has a single storey with an attic and three bays. Notable features include a chamfered doorway with a four-centred arch, hood moulds, and recessed-chamfered mullioned windows. The gables are topped with bulbous kneelers and coping stones. At the rear, the house projects slightly beyond the chapel and includes additional mullioned windows and a doorway on the left.

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Fishpond Wood

After visiting Bewerley Grange Chapel, I leave the village and continue to Fishpond Wood, a charming stretch of woodland featuring a man-made pond. I realise I might have missed this peaceful spot had I followed the official route of the Bewerley Industrial Heritage Trail.

Fishpond Wood is a tranquil and historic woodland, cherished by both the local community and visitors alike. Trees have grown here for over 500 years, and more than two centuries ago the site was landscaped. Footpaths were laid out to create a carefully designed woodland experience, which became a popular destination during the 1800s.

Originally part of the pleasure grounds surrounding Bewerley Hall, the wood also contained small quarries. These supplied stone for local buildings and the hall itself. Prior to that, the woodland had been managed for timber production.

The pond was created by damming a stream, though its exact date remains uncertain. Some believe it may have been formed around 500 years ago by Cistercian monks from Fountains Abbey to provide Bewerley Grange with a reliable fish supply.

Around 1780, local landowner John Yorke laid out woodland walks through the site and may also have been responsible for creating the pond. By 1800, he had constructed the icehouse, and some 30 years later his nephew added a boathouse and a small jetty. These features not only enhanced the landscape but also provided employment for local people. Today, the woodland is an important example of 18th-century gentry philanthropy.

The Yorke family sold Fishpond Wood in 1927. It is now privately owned, though it remains open for public enjoyment. In 2015, the original path to the icehouse was reinstated, and the structure itself was restored. This work was completed by local volunteers working with the landowner as part of the Upper Nidderdale Landscape Partnership Scheme.

In 1895, the guidebook author Edmund Bogg wrote:

Fishpond Wood, a delightful retreat, where man’s efforts, in the formation of the lake, have most nearly imitated nature. Encircling the pond is a footpath, shaded by fine beeches, which at places overhang the road, and, dipping the tips of their branches into the water, form natural arches.

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Bewerley Industrial Heritage Trail: Toft Gate Lime Kiln

From Fishpond Wood, a varied and engaging two-mile walk brings me to the first major highlight of the Bewerley Industrial Heritage Trail: Toft Gate Lime Kiln.

Toft Gate Lime Kiln is one of the best-preserved examples of large-scale lime production from the late 19th century. Built during the 1860s, it served the growing Victorian demand for lime, a material essential for producing mortar and improving agricultural land. The kiln remained in operation for around 40 years.

It was a harsh, dirty, and often dangerous place to work. Quarrymen extracted limestone from the surrounding area and broke it into fist-sized pieces. Some of the labourers were boys. Coal, delivered by train to Pateley Bridge, was transported to the kiln by waggoners and used to fuel the fire, which burned continuously day and night.

Limestone was loaded into the top of the kiln, probably using a steam-powered crane, then sealed—possibly with a metal hood—to retain the heat. The lime burner kept the fire going by feeding coal into fire holes halfway up the kiln’s structure. As the stone burned, it turned into quicklime, and the fumes were channelled through a flue to a chimney further up the hillside.

Once the limestone had been reduced to lime, it dropped through a grille into a chamber at the kiln’s base. The lime burner then raked it out through arched draw holes. The resulting quicklime was often ‘slaked’ by adding water to form a putty or powder. It was then carted away for use in building and farming.

Toft Gate Lime Kiln was built using an experimental design, inspired by techniques from local lead mining. Its unusual construction has helped it survive in remarkably good condition.

The work was physically demanding and often detrimental to health. One local man, Mark Dinsdale, born in 1813, began lime burning after being diagnosed with tuberculosis. A doctor believed the combination of fresh air and kiln fumes might help. It did—Mark worked in kilns around Nidderdale for the next 60 years. Though the work was hard and risky, the kilns’ warmth was known to attract labourers and travellers who paused there to rest.

Producing quicklime was a noisy, intense, and relentless process. Tools rang against stone, the crane clanked, and the flue roared as it vented gases into the cold Nidderdale air. Despite the difficult conditions, the industry provided valuable materials and supported the local economy.

The remains of the kiln are easily reached on foot. Visitors can view the firing platform, draw holes, and flue. Safety fencing marks unstable areas, but much of the structure remains clearly visible. Interpretation panels explain the kiln’s function and history, and paths nearby link the site to Coldstones Cut and the surrounding landscape.

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Bewerley Industrial Heritage Trail: The Coldstones Cut

From the lime kiln, I follow the path and head towards the second major highlight of the Bewerley Industrial Heritage Trail: The Coldstones Cut and Coldstones Quarry.

Perched at 1,375 feet (418 metres) above sea level on Greenhow Hill, The Coldstones Cut is Yorkshire’s most ambitious piece of public art. Created by British sculptor Andrew Sabin, the installation was commissioned as a cultural response to Coldstones Quarry—one of the highest and deepest working quarries in England. The sculpture offers a unique visitor experience, combining monumental stone pathways with panoramic views across the landscape.

The Coldstones Cut merges the strength of ancient stone construction with the curious form of a modern streetscape. Visitors can walk through a maze of winding passages and raised platforms enclosed by towering stone walls. From these vantage points, it’s possible to look down into the vast quarry, where 60-tonne trucks trundle far below, or gaze out across the Nidderdale National Landscape and the wider Dales.

The sculpture presents a striking contrast between industry and nature. It invites visitors to reflect on the quarry’s history, its continued operation, and their own relationship with the landscape around them.

Development began in 2006, following changes to quarry boundaries and the removal of an older viewing platform. The project was led by Nidderdale Visual Arts in partnership with Hanson Aggregates, the quarry operator at the time, and with expert guidance from the Henry Moore Institute.

Planning permission was granted in 2009. Construction started in March 2010 during heavy snow, and the sculpture was officially opened on 16 September 2010 by Dr Penelope Curtis, then Director of Tate Britain.

The Coldstones Cut was made possible with support from:

• Natural England (Aggregate Levy Sustainability Fund)
• Arts Council England (Yorkshire), via the National Lottery
• Hanson Aggregates
• Yorkshire Forward (Yorkshire Dales LEADER Programme)
• Renaissance Market Town Programme

Access to the sculpture is via a 500-metre uphill walk from the public car park near Greenhow. Entry is free, and the site is open all year round. Due to its exposed location, visitors should wear appropriate clothing and sturdy footwear.

From the sculpture, the views are superb. On clear days, you can see for miles across Nidderdale and the surrounding Yorkshire Dales. Coldstones Quarry itself—Nidderdale’s last remaining working quarry—is clearly visible below.

British sculptor Andrew Sabin studied at Chelsea College of Art, where he later taught as a Senior Lecturer. Over his long and varied career, he has created several large-scale installations, including The Sea of Sun, which toured internationally. Between 1998 and 2010, he focused on work for public spaces, culminating in The Coldstones Cut.

The sculpture won two major accolades in 2011: the Bruntwood Award for Business and the Marsh Award for Public Sculpture. That same year, Sabin was commissioned to replace Henry Moore’s Two Piece Reclining Figure No.1 at the former Chelsea School of Art. His bronze piece Painting and Sculpture was installed in 2013. He continues to live and work in West Sussex with his wife, fellow sculptor Laura Ford.

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Bewerley Industrial Heritage Trail: Coldstones Quarry

On Greenhow Hill, Coldstones Quarry is the last remaining working quarry in Nidderdale. It lies on land shaped by geological processes spanning hundreds of millions of years. The limestone extracted here has supported both ancient industries and modern construction.

Around 350 million years ago, Greenhow lay south of the equator, beneath warm, tropical seas teeming with marine life. As these sea creatures died, calcium carbonate from their shells settled on the seabed, eventually forming thick layers of limestone.

By 310 million years ago, the sea had begun to shallow. Large rivers carried sediments that built up into extensive deltas of mud and sand. These deposits became the shale and sandstone that now lie above the limestone and form the gritstone moors visible across Nidderdale.

Roughly 280 million years ago, immense tectonic forces began to fold and fracture the rock layers. Then, around 250 million years ago, mineral-rich fluids flowed through these fractures, leaving behind veins of galena (lead ore), fluorspar, barytes, and calcite. Over time, erosion exposed the harder limestone, while glaciers during the last two million years sculpted the landscape we see today.

Historically, Greenhow was more famous for mining than quarrying. Its rich mineral veins, particularly those containing lead, attracted miners for centuries. The Romans are believed to have worked the area. Two lead ingots dated to around AD 81 were discovered on Heyshaw Moor, suggesting that lead from Nidderdale may have supplied Roman Britain.

By 1225, rival monastic communities—most notably Fountains Abbey and Byland Abbey—were competing for mining rights in the area. During the medieval period, lead was transported over long distances. In 1365, for example, two wagons drawn by ten oxen each carried 24 fothers of lead from Caldstanes in Nidderdale to Windsor.

Early mining methods included surface trenching and bell pits. As workings grew deeper, drainage became a major problem. By the 18th century, miners were using horizontal tunnels, or adits, to reach the veins. Horse-drawn tramways then carried the ore to the surface. Although lead mining in Greenhow declined in the 1890s due to rising costs and falling prices, miners returned in the 20th century to recover fluorspar from the waste dumps left behind.

Quarrying at Coldstones began over a century ago. In 1897, just nine men worked the site using hand tools. By 1929, mechanical stone crushers and explosives had been introduced, dramatically increasing output.

Today, Coldstones Quarry produces large quantities of crushed limestone aggregate. This is used in asphalt, concrete, and dry stone walling. Limestone from the quarry also plays a vital role in producing glass, steel, paper, plastic, toothpaste, fertiliser, and products used in water purification.

Modern quarrying involves several stages:

• Drilling and blasting: Holes are drilled into the rock face and filled with explosives. Sirens warn before blasting.
• Loading and hauling: Dump trucks transport the broken rock.
• Crushing: The rock is broken down in primary and secondary crushers, housed in enclosed buildings to minimise dust and noise.
• Screening and coating: The aggregate is sorted by size, and some is coated with asphalt for road construction.

More than 100 years ago, fumes and dust from limeworks drifted across Nidderdale. Today, modern quarrying techniques are designed to reduce environmental impact. Crushing and screening operations are enclosed, and water sprays help to control dust.

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Bewerley Industrial Heritage Trail: Cockhill Lead Mines

Toft Gate and Coldstones Quarry are the first two main highlights of the Bewerley Industrial Heritage Trail. Both are featured in the official trail literature, which you can read here. The third major highlight mentioned is Cockhill, an area of disused mine workings and abandoned lead mines.

Set high on the windswept slopes of Greenhow Hill, the Cockhill Lead Mines tell a story of centuries-old mining activity, remarkable engineering, and the enduring human effort to extract ore from beneath the Yorkshire landscape. Mining here began in the 12th century, when Byland and Fountains Abbeys held rights to work the veins across Greenhow and Coldstones Hills. The area quickly became a key site for lead production.

By the 1740s, mining had progressed to deeper shafts, but waterlogging became a persistent challenge. Thornhill’s Level was driven from Brandstone Beck to Greenhow village in an attempt to drain the Waterhole Vein, though several other parts of the site remained affected. By the late 18th century, drainage was reorganised, with veins divided into two groups, each served by a separate level driven from Brandstone Beck.

In 1782, the company Overend & Co. began work on what became known as Gillfield Level. Their tunnel cut through sharply angled layers of sandstone and shale. Once they reached the limestone, they intersected the Waterhole Vein, which had already been accessed by earlier shafts. Much of the richest ore near the surface had already been extracted. In the 1930s, miners returned to recover fluorspar from the abandoned stopes.

The Gillfield Level continued for about 120 metres before turning south to follow Sun Vein. Remains of the old workings, including a large stope, can still be seen. However, progress was soon halted by a gulph—a clay-filled void commonly found in Greenhow’s mineral veins. These gulphs were difficult to tunnel through and often forced miners to abandon their efforts. By the early 19th century, Gillfield (also known as North Coldstones) was formally merged with the Cockhill mining grant.

Work on Cockhill Level began around 1783, about 150 metres west-south-west of Gillfield. Developed by Cleaver & Co., this level was also aimed at the Waterhole Vein and extended westward. A side level was driven south-east beneath the old Miners Arms in search of the Sunside veins, which turned out to contain valuable ore.

By the 1830s, miners had followed Sun Vein well to the south of Gillfield Level. A chamber was excavated underground, and a vertical shaft was sunk to access the ore body. Within this chamber, a steam-powered pumping engine and boiler were installed. Miners used older, abandoned tunnels to vent the engine’s smoke to the surface.

By 1838, the chimney shaft had collapsed, cutting off ventilation. Meanwhile, the quality of ore in Sun Vein was declining. These difficulties led to the closure of the underground workings soon afterwards.

A further productive area developed along the western extension of Cockhill Level, following Greenhow Rake. In the late 1850s, a new engine chamber was built to assist with pumping water from a deep shaft. This shaft reached a depth of 40 fathoms (about 73 metres) and remained in use until 1881, when it flooded after a pump rod broke.

A final attempt to restart mining came in 1925, when Beverley Mines Ltd tried to drain the workings. They reused one of the original boilers to power a pump, forcing water up through the old chimney shaft. Although they reached the 30-fathom level, rising costs and persistent blockages brought the effort to an end.

Both Gillfield and Cockhill Levels were once served by their own smelt mills. The Gillfield mill, located about 50 metres south-west of the level entrance, closed early. The Cockhill mill, by contrast, remained active for much longer. It featured two ore-hearths and a roasting furnace, with each hearth connected to its own flue and chimney, located about 40 and 60 metres away from the main building.

Today, parts of the Cockhill Lead Mines are still visible. Spoil heaps, collapsed shafts, and stone ruins scatter the hillside. The site is also home to rare lead-tolerant plants, including Spring Sandwort, Alpine Penny-cress, and Rigid Buckler Fern, which thrive in the mineral-rich ground.

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After visiting these fascinating mines, I make my way along the Nidderdale Way, enjoying the beautiful countryside as I go. Swaledale sheep and lambs stand alert on a grassy hillside, some looking straight at the camera with curious expressions. The lambs, with their distinctive black ears and legs, huddle close to two ewes.

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A one-mile section of the Nidderdale Way, heading east from Hillend, follows a quiet country lane. It’s an absolute pleasure to walk along. With barely any traffic, I’m free to enjoy the surrounding scenery without needing to watch every step for fear of tripping. Although technically a road, it feels more like a peaceful footpath through farmland.

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On my return to Pateley Bridge, I pause to visit the war memorial. The monument is a tall, rough-hewn stone with a polished plaque listing the names of local men who gave their lives in service. It stands on a raised platform, approached by a few stone steps, with two simple handrails leading the way.

Today, the space feels especially poignant. It is the 8th of May—VE Day—and the base of the memorial is surrounded by a striking number of poppy wreaths. Their vivid red contrasts sharply with the stone and greenery, each one a quiet act of remembrance.

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Pateley Bridge

Pateley Bridge sits at the entrance to Nidderdale, a valley officially designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty since 1994. Nestled within the Nidderdale National Landscape, the town gained national recognition in The Sunday Times list of the Best Places to Live in northern England in both 2017 and 2018.

The High Street forms the heart of the town. It runs along a gentle slope through the centre, flanked by traditional stone buildings that house tea rooms, cafés, galleries, and a wide range of independently run shops. Among these are two award-winning butchers, along with several art and antique dealers. The street retains a timeless charm and remains a popular stop for walkers, cyclists, and visitors exploring the Dales.

As the main settlement in Upper Nidderdale, Pateley Bridge has a long and layered history. Archaeological evidence suggests that Neolithic communities once lived in the area. More permanent settlements began to take shape during the Anglo-Saxon period, typically near natural springs on the hillsides. Before the Norman Conquest, the land belonged to the Archbishop of York. His manor stretched from Wath to Wilsill and became known as Bishopside—a name still used for the local parish today.

In the early 1300s, a period of poor harvests and repeated Scottish raids prompted the Archbishop to establish a market and fair at Pateley Bridge. A weekly Tuesday market supported local trade, while an annual fair held on 8 September marked the Feast of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Although the weekly market no longer takes place, the tradition of the fair survives in the form of the Nidderdale Show—a major agricultural event held each September at Bewerley Park.

As the population grew, farming alone could no longer support the community. Many residents turned to mining and quarrying, particularly in the area around nearby Greenhow Hill. Lead extraction here dates back to Roman times. In 1363, lead from Nidderdale was used to roof Windsor Castle. Crinoidal limestone quarried near Lofthouse was later used to create steps at St George’s Chapel and in the construction of Fountains Abbey.

Handloom weaving, once widespread across the Dales, eventually gave way to linen production. Although some flax was grown locally, much of it was imported from mainland Europe via Hull and Boroughbridge.

In the 19th century, Pateley Bridge saw rapid development, thanks in large part to the efforts of the Metcalfe family. They established mills, opened breweries, and expanded quarrying operations. George Metcalfe played a key role in bringing the railway to Nidderdale. He held a majority share in Scot Gate Ash Quarry and constructed an inclined railway to transport stone down the hillside to sidings on the valley floor. This enabled Nidderdale stone to be shipped to building sites across the country. The high-quality Millstone Grit from Scot Gate Ash was used in major projects including Victoria Station, the National Gallery, and several London museums. By the 1880s, it was the largest quarry in the West Riding.

Pateley Bridge thrived as an industrial town throughout the 19th century. It had a vibrant cultural and religious life, centred on its churches and chapels. But by the end of the century, the lead mines were already in decline. Many of the quarries followed suit in the decades that followed. By the 1960s, the last flax and linen mills—by then producing string and rope—had closed their doors.

That period of decline eventually gave way to renewal. Tourism increased, and efforts to restore and repurpose derelict buildings helped to breathe new life into the town. Regeneration continues today, making Pateley Bridge not only a picturesque gateway to the Nidderdale countryside, but a thriving community with a rich and resilient heritage.

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The Oldest Sweet Shop in the World

Towards the end of my walk, I stop by one of Pateley Bridge’s best-known landmarks: The Oldest Sweet Shop in the World. Located on the High Street in a building that dates back to the 1600s, this historic little shop has traded continuously since 1827. It remains a cherished part of the town’s fabric. Even now, it sells an extraordinary selection of traditional sweets and chocolates—just as it did almost 200 years ago.

Inside, it feels as though time has stood still. Rows of glass jars line the wooden shelves—humbugs, pear drops, aniseed balls, and jelly babies, to name just a few. You’ll also find retro favourites like kola cubes, popping candy, and cola bottles. Most of the sweets are still made in England using traditional methods. Some are boiled in copper pans and shaped with century-old moulds. The fudge is made locally, and the chocolates are sourced from master chocolatiers in Belgium and Switzerland.

There’s a genuine sense of pride in the shop’s heritage and quality. Everything is carefully packaged, and the friendly staff know their stock inside out. I’m told they regularly sample the sweets in the name of quality control—‘a hard job’, they say with a smile.

The shop began life during the industrial revolution, a time when Pateley Bridge was alive with mills, quarries, and breweries. The streets bustled with workers and families. Back then, the shop was a favourite stop for mill owners, labourers, and children alike, all spending their hard-earned coins on boiled sweets or cinder toffee. When chocolate bars first appeared in the 19th century—thanks to pioneers like Fry’s and Cadbury’s—the shop was among the first to sell them.

Even during the hardships of the First and Second World Wars, when sweets became rare, the shop continued to serve the community. Liquorice sticks, toffees, and other small comforts lifted spirits, especially for the children evacuated to nearby Bewerley Park. Many of them still return today, sharing fond memories of the sweets they once enjoyed.

The shop weathered the changes of the 20th century, even as supermarkets and plastic packaging took over. While others abandoned traditional counter service and glass jars, this shop remained true to its roots. Many of those original jars are still in use—at least the ones that haven’t been broken over the years.

In the digital age, the shop has moved with the times without losing its charm. You can still visit in person, or order your favourites online. Orders are packed in cellophane to preserve freshness and prevent stickiness during delivery.

For many, this sweet shop is a destination in its own right. Independent shops across the country look to it as the gold standard. It’s not uncommon to hear it described as a ‘national treasure’.

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Nidderdale Museum

The Bewerley Industrial Heritage Trail starts and finishes at the Nidderdale Museum on King Street. This fascinating and much-loved institution sits at the heart of Pateley Bridge, housed in the imposing stone building once known as the Pateley Bridge Union Workhouse. Built in 1863 to replace an earlier workhouse on Bishopside Moor, it is now more familiarly known as The Old Workhouse. The building itself is a piece of Nidderdale’s social history.

The museum was founded in 1975 by a dedicated group of volunteers who feared the traditional way of life in Nidderdale was disappearing in the years following the Second World War. Farms were modernising, the lead and stone industries had collapsed, and long-established communities were beginning to fragment. The museum was their way of preserving these stories and sharing them with future generations.

Remarkably, the museum has always been entirely run and staffed by volunteers. Their efforts have received national recognition. In 1990, the museum was awarded the National Heritage Museum of the Year for being ‘the museum which does the most with the least’. A Harrogate Volunteering Oscar followed in 2010, and in 2017 the team received the Queen’s Award for Voluntary Service.

In 2009, the museum gained full accreditation from the Museums, Libraries and Archives Council. When responsibility for accreditation passed to Arts Council England, the team worked hard to meet the new requirements. Following a major project in 2021, full re-accreditation was granted in November 2023. The museum now stands proudly among around 1,800 fully accredited museums across the UK.

Top Lake District Walking Guides for Exploring the Fells

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