Helmsley Walk: A Journey Through Peaceful Woodlands and Dales

Discover Scenic Trails on the Helmsley Walk in the North York Moors

This Helmsley walk begins in the charming town centre of Helmsley, where you’ll find the large Cleveland Way Car Park on the town’s western side. From the car park, head back to the main road, the B1257, and turn left as if you were leaving the town. Shortly, you’ll spot a scenic footpath on your right leading into a grove of trees. Take this stone-paved path, which briefly follows the picturesque Borough Beck stream.

The path soon widens into a broad track, which you’ll follow north through the serene Beck Dale for about three miles (4.8 kilometres), passing through Beckdale East Wood and Collier Hag Wood. Eventually, the track veers uphill to the right. Continue your journey north through the woods before turning east across open fields to reach a minor tarmac road. Turn left and follow the road until you arrive at High Baxton’s Farm on your left.

Opposite the farm, turn right and continue east across expansive fields, then through a dense woodland until you arrive at Carlton Grange. After Carlton Grange, maintain your eastward trek, crossing straight over another minor tarmac road. Follow the trail east through the enchanting Riccal Dale Wood, eventually descending into Riccal Dale to meet a forest track.

Follow this path south for about half a mile (0.8 kilometres) through Riccal Dale Wood, then veer right to ascend out of the dale. Next, follow the western edge of the wood until you reach Rea Garth Farm. After passing the farm, continue south for about a quarter of a mile (0.4 kilometres) before heading west towards Monk Holme Wood.

In Monk Holme Wood, follow the trail south through the dense woodland. Upon emerging from the southern end of the wood, head south-west across rolling farmland to reach the eastern outskirts of Helmsley, near YHA Helmsley on Carlton Lane. Continue west along Carlton Lane, which curves to the left and becomes Canons Garth Lane. This lane will guide you back to the B1257, close to the Cleveland Way Car Park.

This Helmsley walk is a delightful 9½-mile (15¼-kilometre) route through the North York Moors. The trek offers a variety of landscapes, including peaceful woodlands, open fields, and scenic dales, providing a wonderful way to explore the natural beauty surrounding the picturesque town of Helmsley.

Helmsley Walk: Distance, Duration, Statistics

Recommended Ordnance Survey Map

The best map to use on this walk is the Ordnance Survey map of the North York Moors Western Area, reference OS Explorer OL26, scale 1:25,000. It clearly displays footpaths, rights of way, open access land and vegetation on the ground, making it ideal for walking, running and hiking. The map can be purchased from Amazon in either a standard, paper version or a weatherproof, laminated version, as shown below.

About Helmsley

Helmsley is a market town and civil parish in North Yorkshire, with a unique blend of historical significance and modern charm. After your Helmsley walk, it is worth having a look round to explore the town’s many attractions and appreciate its unique character.

Location and Significance

Helmsley is strategically situated at the junction of Ryedale and the Vale of Pickering, a location that has historically contributed to its growth and development. The town lies along the River Rye, which adds to its picturesque setting and has played a vital role in its history. Helmsley is conveniently located on the A170 road, making it easily accessible from several key locations: it is 14 miles (23 kilometres) east of Thirsk, 13 miles (21 kilometres) west of Pickering, and 24 miles (39 kilometres) north of York.

Furthermore, the town’s geographical positioning is enhanced by its inclusion within the boundaries of the North York Moors National Park. This unique feature places part of Helmsley within a protected area known for its stunning landscapes and rich biodiversity. The southern boundary of the park passes through the town along the A170 road, integrating Helmsley into one of the most scenic and ecologically significant regions in the country, making it an ideal starting point for any Helmsley walk.

Historical Architecture and Town Layout

Helmsley boasts a medieval layout that centres around its bustling market place. This historical configuration has been preserved through the centuries, contributing to the town’s considerable architectural character. The compact town structure, with its origins dating back to medieval times, includes narrow streets and traditional buildings that evoke a sense of stepping back in time.

Development in Helmsley has primarily occurred to the north and south of its main thoroughfare, Bondgate. Despite modern expansions, the town has retained its historical charm, with new buildings blending seamlessly with the old. Consequently, the town’s centre has been designated as a conservation area, ensuring that its unique architectural heritage is preserved for future generations. This status highlights the town’s commitment to maintaining its historical integrity while accommodating contemporary needs, which visitors can appreciate during a leisurely walk around Helmsley.

Notable Associations

Helmsley is intrinsically linked to the Earls of Feversham and the prominent Duncombe family, whose ancestral home, Duncombe Park, overlooks the town. This grand estate not only adds to the town’s historical allure but also serves as a significant cultural landmark. The park and its surrounding gardens attract numerous visitors each year, drawn by its beauty and historical importance. Your Helmsley walk could perhaps include a visit to these picturesque gardens.

In the heart of Helmsley, a statue of William Duncombe, 2nd Baron Feversham, stands proudly in the town square. This statue is a testament to the enduring legacy of the Duncombe family and their impact on the town’s development.

Moreover, Helmsley is a popular tourist destination, renowned for its charming ambience and historical sites. The town has earned accolades such as gold medals in the Large Village category of Yorkshire in Bloom for three consecutive years, showcasing its commitment to beauty and community spirit. The town square has become a favoured meeting place for motorcyclists, especially those travelling along the B1257 road from Stokesley, a route cherished by bikers for its scenic views and challenging curves.

Additionally, Helmsley’s appeal is further enhanced by its connection to the Cleveland Way National Trail, which starts in the town and extends for 110 miles (180 kilometres) through the North York Moors National Park and along the Yorkshire coast to Filey. This trail attracts hikers and nature enthusiasts, adding to Helmsley’s reputation as a hub for outdoor activities. Many begin their journey with a walk around Helmsley before setting off on the trail.

The History of Helmsley

Helmsley’s history is rich and varied, with roots dating back to the Neolithic period and significant developments through the centuries.

Early Settlement and Archaeological Finds

Helmsley’s earliest known settlements date back to around 3000 BC, indicating a long history of human habitation. Archaeological discoveries reveal that small farming communities thrived in the area throughout the Neolithic, Bronze, and Iron Ages. These communities engaged in agriculture, as evidenced by the discovery of beehive querns used for milling grain since at least the Iron Age.

Further proof of the area’s ancient past comes from Roman-era finds, including pottery and coins. These artefacts suggest that the region was not only settled but also actively engaged in trade and daily life during Roman times. One notable archaeological investigation featured on the BBC Two programme History Cold Case in 2011 examined four 2000-year-old skeletons found in Windy Pits caves. The investigation concluded that at least one individual had been a victim of ritual killing, including scalping, adding a mysterious and grim chapter to Helmsley’s ancient history.

Medieval Period and Development

By the medieval period, Helmsley was known as Elmeslac, an Old English name meaning ‘Helm’s forest clearing’. This name reflects the landscape of the time, characterised by dense woodlands. The influence of Viking settlers is also evident in the street names ending with ‘gate,’ derived from the Old Norse word for road.

Following the Norman Conquest, Helmsley was governed within the wapentake of Maneshou in the North Riding of Yorkshire. The town’s land was initially held by William the Conqueror’s half-brother, the Count of Mortain. In 1191, Helmsley was granted a borough charter by Robert de Ros, establishing it as a market town and fostering its development. This charter created the burgage plots—long, narrow plots that can still be observed in the property boundaries on the west side of Castlegate and the east side of Bridge Street. These historic streets can be explored before or after your Helmsley walk.

Economic and Structural Growth

Throughout the medieval period and into the early modern era, Helmsley’s economy was heavily reliant on wool production and weaving. Large-scale sheep farming supported this industry, and the town’s weavers were located primarily on Bond and Bridge Streets. Despite facing setbacks such as raids by Scots and the Black Death, Helmsley grew steadily.

With the dissolution of Rievaulx Abbey and the decline in wool production, Helmsley’s weavers turned to flax, much of which was imported. By the 17th century, Helmsley had largely taken on its present form. Many buildings in use today date from this period, with Canon’s Garth, a former vicarage, being the oldest surviving house.

The town remained under the control of the barony of De Ros through various noble families until it was sold to Sir Charles Duncombe, a city financier, in about 1689. The 18th and 19th centuries brought significant architectural expansions and industrial shifts. The construction of Duncombe Park marked the beginning of major developments by the Duncombe family. Despite the decline of cottage weaving due to competition from industrial cities, the 19th century saw notable developments such as the rebuilding of All Saints’ Church and the construction of Helmsley Town Hall.

The arrival of the railway in 1871 spurred further development, with new houses being built along Bondgate and Station Road. Although the weaving industry had declined, agriculture continued to be a mainstay of the local economy. This period also saw the remodelling of older houses, leading to the virtual disappearance of thatched roofs in the town.

The Geography of Helmsley

The geographical setting of Helmsley offers a diverse and picturesque landscape, contributing to its unique appeal. During your Helmsley walk, take the time to enjoy the scenic views and natural beauty that surround the town.

Physical Geography

Helmsley is situated on the southern boundary of the North York Moors National Park, approximately 200 feet (61 metres) above sea level. This strategic location places the town within a region renowned for its stunning natural beauty and ecological significance. The town’s geology is predominantly sandstone, providing a solid foundation and contributing to the character of the buildings and landscape. To the west and north of Helmsley, the moorland areas are primarily limestone, adding to the geological diversity of the region.

Surrounding Landscapes

The surrounding landscapes of Helmsley are varied and picturesque, offering a rich tapestry of natural features. To the north, the town is flanked by heather moorland, part of the expansive North York Moors. This area is known for its rolling hills covered in vibrant heather, creating a striking contrast against the clear skies and offering excellent opportunities for walking and wildlife observation.

To the south of Helmsley lie the Howardian Hills, a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB). This region features a mix of wooded hills, farmland, and picturesque villages, providing a serene and scenic backdrop to the town. The Howardian Hills contribute to Helmsley’s appeal as a destination for walkers and outdoor enthusiasts.

Stretching eastwards from the town is the Vale of Pickering, a broad lowland area that extends towards Malton. This flat, fertile plain is an important agricultural region, characterised by its open countryside and rural charm. The Vale of Pickering adds to the diversity of the landscapes surrounding Helmsley, making the town a focal point for exploring different natural environments.

Hydrological Features

The hydrology of Helmsley is marked by the presence of the River Rye, which flows by the town, and the Borough Beck, which runs southwards through the town from the moors. These watercourses not only enhance the town’s scenic beauty but also play a vital role in its ecological and environmental health.

The meadows south of the River Rye form an important natural buffer and create an attractive setting for the town, particularly when viewed from the southern approach. These meadows are not only visually pleasing but also provide valuable habitats for local wildlife.

However, Helmsley’s location and topography have also made it susceptible to flooding. A significant flood event occurred on the night of 19 June 2005, highlighting the town’s vulnerability to natural hydrological changes. This event has since informed local planning and management efforts to mitigate future flood risks and protect the community and its natural environment.

Population and Community in Helmsley

Helmsley is a small but thriving community with a stable population and a strong sense of identity.

Demographic Details

Helmsley’s population has remained relatively stable over the years, reflecting its appeal as a place to live and visit. According to the 2001 Census, the population of the larger Helmsley ward area was recorded as 3097. North Yorkshire County Council estimated the population of the actual urban town area to be approximately 1500 in the year 2000. This figure was confirmed by the 2011 Census, which recorded the town’s population at 1515. These numbers indicate a steady and manageable population size, contributing to a close-knit community atmosphere.

Educational Facilities

Helmsley is included in the catchment area of Ryedale School, a well-regarded institution that serves the educational needs of the local children. This inclusion ensures that families in Helmsley have access to quality education within a reasonable distance, fostering a supportive environment for the town’s younger residents. The presence of Ryedale School also adds to the town’s appeal for new families looking to settle in a community that values education and provides a stable foundation for children’s growth and development.

Enjoy Your Helmsley Walk

Helmsley’s blend of historical depth, scenic geography, and vibrant community life makes it a noteworthy destination. Its rich past, unique geographical features, and stable population highlight its enduring appeal. This charming market town, with its well-preserved medieval layout, significant architectural heritage, and picturesque surroundings, offers a unique and welcoming environment for residents and visitors alike. The community’s strong sense of identity and commitment to maintaining its historical and natural assets ensure that Helmsley remains a treasured location in North Yorkshire. Whether you are planning this Helmsley walk or a visit to its historical sites, the town promises a memorable experience.

Helmsley Walk: My Photos

Footpath by the side of Borough Beck, just off the B1257 near the start of this Helmsley walk.

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The start of the track between Barton Hag Wood and Beckdale East Wood.

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Borough Beck flowing through Beck Dale.

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Both the track and the beck follow the same route through Collier Hag Wood.

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Woodland path just south-west of High Baxton’s Farm, about one-third of the way round this Helmsley walk.

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The route through Ash Dale Plantation between High Baxton’s Farm and Carlton Grange.

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The roots of the tall pine trees seem so shallow, and it’s hardly surprising that some have toppled over.

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The Tabular Hills, an east-to-west range of hills in the southern region of the North York Moors between Scarborough and Hambleton. The 48-mile walk, which crosses these hills, runs from Scalby Mills to Helmsley and connects the southerly ends of the Cleveland Way.

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An ideal and very peaceful resting place at the northern end of Riccal Dale, roughly two-thirds of the way round this Helmsley walk.

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The view across Riccal Dale towards the woodland on the valley’s eastern slopes.

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Rea Garth Farm, now abandoned.

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