Explore the Yorkshire Dales on a Wensleydale Walk to Preston-under-Scar and Redmire
Begin your Wensleydale walk in the picturesque village of Wensley. Park in the spacious roadside car park on the A684, situated next to Wensley Bridge on the southern edge of the village. From the car park, cross Wensley Bridge and head into the village. You will pass the church on your right before reaching a small village green on your left. Turn left here and follow the road into Wensley Park, which forms part of the Bolton Estate.
Walk along the concrete road until you come to a large stone house called Wensley House on your right. Just beyond the house, take the public footpath on your right. This path leads diagonally across a grassy field in a north-westerly direction. Aim for Hellgill Cottage, the house in the far corner of the field. Pass the cottage, turn left, and go through a gate. Then, turn right onto a stone track. Follow this track around the edge of the wood and turn left into the woodland to reach the main road.
Turn left along the road for a short stretch, then turn right onto a public footpath. Follow this trail across a field, where you will cross the Wensleydale Railway, and then continue across another field. Cross the road and follow the track uphill to Keldheads Lane Smelt Mill near Tullis Cote. Use the tall chimney of the former smelt mill as a guide. Continue past the smelt mill, climbing uphill. Pass a farm and some large barns on your right before reaching a crossroads. Walk straight ahead here, following the wide stone track as it ascends into woodland.
Look for a gap in the dry stone wall on your left and take the public footpath into the woods. Cross a stream and continue until you emerge into a grassy field. Follow the trail across this field to reach a road. Turn right and head towards the village of Preston-under-Scar. Walk through the village, ignoring the left turn signposted for Redmire, Wensley, and Leyburn. At the village’s western edge, turn left just after Jubilee Cottage. Take the public footpath downhill, which leads to the main road.
Turn right briefly along the main road, then turn left onto another public footpath. Cross the Wensleydale Railway again and continue across several fields, heading diagonally south-west. Pass a large stone barn on your right and aim for the right-hand side of the farm at Wood End. The path here may be faint, but as you near the farm, veer right to reach Wood End Lane.
Turn right onto the concrete lane, passing St Mary’s Church on your left. Continue along the tarmac road to the southern edge of Redmire. If you want to explore the village, turn right. Otherwise, turn left and follow Mill Lane southwards. At the bottom of the lane, pass Mill Farm on your left and take the permissive footpath on your right. This path leads to the waterfalls. Walk through the woodland and descend a grassy bank to the banks of the River Ure. Follow the river upstream, crossing a footbridge over Apedale Beck, and continue along the river to Redmire Force.
Retrace your steps back to the permissive path near Mill Farm. Instead of returning up Mill Lane, follow the public footpath straight ahead. This elevated path runs along the north side of the River Ure. When you reach a large open field, turn left and go through a gate. Walk along the trail, turn left again, and then turn right onto Well Lane. This wider track passes a farmhouse on your right. Just beyond the farmhouse, turn right and follow the public footpath into a large open field.
Continue along this footpath in a south-easterly direction, crossing several fields, until you reach West Wood. Walk through the woodland on the forest track. After about a mile, the path will bring you past Bolton Hall on your left. From here, follow the route east through Wensley Park for roughly another mile until you return to the village of Wensley. At the main road, turn right to cross the River Ure once more. This will bring you back to the car park, completing your Wensleydale walk in the stunning Yorkshire Dales.
Wensleydale Walk: Maps and Tools
Visit either the OS Maps website or the Outdooractive website to view this walking route in greater detail. Both platforms offer a range of features, including the ability to print the route, download it to your device, and export the route as a GPX file. You can also watch a 3D fly-over and share the route on social media.
Wensleydale Walk: Distance, Duration, Statistics
Distance: 9¼ miles
Distance: 14¾ kilometres
Duration: 4¼ hours
Ascent: 682 feet
Ascent: 208 metres
Type: Circular walk
Recommended Ordnance Survey Map
The best map to use on this walk is the Ordnance Survey map of the Yorkshire Dales Northern & Central Area, reference OS Explorer OL30, scale 1:25,000. It clearly displays footpaths, rights of way, open access land and vegetation on the ground, making it ideal for walking, running and hiking. The map can be purchased from Amazon in either a standard, paper version or a weatherproof, laminated version, as shown below.
Standard Version
About Wensleydale
Wensleydale is a picturesque valley in North Yorkshire and one of the renowned Yorkshire Dales. The dale takes its name from the village of Wensley, which was once the valley’s market town. The principal river flowing through Wensleydale is the River Ure, giving rise to the alternative name, Yoredale. Most of the dale lies within the Yorkshire Dales National Park, although the section below East Witton falls within the Nidderdale Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
The upper dale is dominated by Addlebrough, standing at 481 metres (1578 feet), while Penhill, rising to 526 metres (1726 feet), is a prominent feature of the lower dale. The Yoredale Group of Carboniferous rocks derives its name from this valley. Wensleydale is perhaps best known for its cheese, famously produced in the town of Hawes.
Wensleydale’s Historical Background
In the Domesday Book of 1086, Wensley was recorded as including two berewicks (portions of farmland) totalling seven carucates (units of land area). These lands were attached to Count Alan’s manor of East Witton and supported 11 villagers, 2 smallholders, and 18 ploughlands. By 1199, Wensley Church was established under the patronage of Niel son of Alexander.
Wensley became the valley’s primary village, gaining a Royal Charter in 1202 to host a market. The Metcalfe family, one of Yorkshire’s most notable clans, settled in Wensleydale after emigrating from Dentdale in the 14th century. Sir James Metcalfe (1389–1472), a key figure of the family, fought in the Battle of Agincourt alongside King Henry V. His son, Sir Thomas Metcalfe, built the fortified Nappa Hall near Askrigg.
During the 16th and 17th centuries, Wensleydale was an industrial hub for lead and coal mining, with limeworks also playing a significant role. However, the village of Wensley suffered a devastating blow in 1563 when the plague struck. Many survivors moved to Leyburn, which eventually replaced Wensley as the valley’s market town.
Wensleydale’s Industrial Development
The arrival of the railway in 1846 connected Wensleydale to the wider world. The line initially ran between Northallerton and Bedale, later extending to Leyburn, Hawes, and Garsdale. Wensley railway station opened in 1877, serving as a critical link for the dale’s communities.
Related Walk: Similar to the Wensleydale Walk
Experience the beautiful countryside of Wensleydale on the Leyburn Shawl walk
Wensleydale’s Attractions and Natural Beauty
Today, Wensleydale’s main settlements include Hawes and Leyburn, along with notable villages such as Aysgarth, Bainbridge, and Middleham. The shortest river in England, the River Bain, flows from Semerwater to the River Ure at Bainbridge, where remnants of a Roman fort and a walkable Roman road can be found. Nearby, Hardraw Force, England’s highest unbroken waterfall, is a must-visit site. A Wensleydale walk along these sites offers an immersive experience of the valley’s natural charm.
Aysgarth Falls, a series of cascades known for their beauty, are another key attraction. They gained fame as filming locations for Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves and Wuthering Heights (1992). Other notable waterfalls include Harmby Falls in Wensley, West Burton Falls, and Whitfield Gill Force near Askrigg.
Wensleydale’s Geography and Surroundings
Wensleydale stretches approximately 25 miles (40 kilometres) from west to east. It lies between Wharfedale to the south and Swaledale to the north, accessible via Buttertubs Pass. Branching dales include Cotterdale, Fossdale, and Apedale to the north, and Widdale, Sleddale, Raydale, Bishopdale, Waldendale, and Coverdale to the south.
The River Ure flows eastwards, eventually becoming the River Ouse, passing through York and merging with the Humber Estuary before meeting the North Sea. Along the way, it gathers tributaries such as the Rivers Swale, Nidd, Wharfe, Aire, Derwent, and Trent. A Wensleydale walk reveals stunning views of these riverbanks and surrounding landscapes.
Wensleydale Walk: My Photos
After parking near Wensley Bridge, I drop down to the banks of the River Ure for a closer view of the bridge. This historic structure incorporates architectural features from the 15th, 18th, and early 19th centuries. From my vantage point on the downstream side, I can see two central pointed arches likely dating to the 15th century. Adjacent to these is an 18th-century segmental arch, and an early 19th-century semicircular arch. According to historical records, Alwyne, the rector of Wensley, constructed the bridge before 1436. The bridge was widened in 1818 and is now designated both as a Grade II listed building and a Scheduled Ancient Monument.
After crossing the bridge and walking into Wensley village, I make a quick detour to visit Holy Trinity Church. This Grade I listed building, cared for by the Churches Conservation Trust, dates back to the mid-13th century. It was built on the foundations of an earlier Saxon church from the 8th century, with later additions in the 14th and 15th centuries. The church’s tower was added in 1719. For centuries, the Scrope family of Bolton Castle supported the church’s upkeep. The rectors’ records begin in 1181 with Geoffrey de Well and continue until 2001 with Robert Miles.
Wensley is a picturesque village on the A684 main road, situated about one mile south-west of Leyburn. It is a convenient starting point for my Wensleydale walk and very easy to get to. The name Wensley originates from an Old English compound referencing the god Woden. Wensley gives its name to Wensleydale, which is unique among dales as it is not named after its river. From 1202, Wensley had the only market in the dale for over a century, and this continued into the 16th century. The village was struck by plague in 1563, causing some surviving villagers to flee to Leyburn. However, Wensley recovered a century later when Charles Paulet built Bolton Hall in 1678 and became the Duke of Bolton.
From the main road in Wensley, I turn left and follow the road past the village green towards the gated entrance of the Bolton Estate. While I parked at the car park near Wensley Bridge, there is additional parking available around the village green, which is primarily used by people coming to walk their dogs.
At the gated entrance to the Bolton Estate, I pass East Lodge and begin my Wensleydale walk in earnest. I follow a concrete driveway, which also serves as a public footpath heading west through Wensley Park. I won’t go too far into the park, as I plan to take a public footpath on the right to reach Tullis Cote.
Immediately upon entering the Bolton Estate, I catch sight of Penhill. This striking hill will remain in view for nearly the entirety of my Wensleydale walk. Penhill stands at 526 metres (1726 feet) above sea level at the triangulation pillar near Penhill Scar, located at the eastern end of the hill. Its highest point, Height of Hazely, reaches 553 metres (1814 feet) at the western side. The ridge dominates the skyline, forming a dramatic natural boundary between Wensleydale to the north and Coverdale to the south. Penhill’s distinctive shape was carved during the last Ice Age, as glaciers formed the U-shaped valley of Wensleydale.
I pass Wensley House on my right-hand side. Checking my map, I confirm that the public footpath I’ll take to Tullis Cote is just after this house, also on the right.
Crossing the large grassy field from Wensley House towards Tullis Cote, Penhill remains a constant companion to the south-west. The name ‘Penhill’ combines the Brittonic word ‘penn’, meaning ‘hill’ or ‘head’, with the Old English word ‘hyll’, also meaning ‘hill’. Local legend adds intrigue to this landscape, telling of the Penhill Giant, a fearsome figure said to have stolen sheep from the surrounding flocks.
Just before reaching Tullis Cote, I cross a section of the Wensleydale Railway, a heritage line running 22 miles (35 kilometres) between Northallerton and Redmire. Originally built in stages by different railway companies, the line once extended to Garsdale Railway Station on the Settle to Carlisle line. Since 2003, the remaining track has operated as a heritage railway. Several bridges have been demolished, and the section between Redmire and Garsdale has been lifted, but one of the stated aims of the Wensleydale Railway is to reinstate this part of the line.
I reach the Keldheads Lane lead smelt mill near Tullis Cote, about half a mile east of Preston-under-Scar. While the mine complex dates back to the mid-19th century, lead mining at this site began in the 12th century. By the 13th century, the site was productive enough to supply lead for roofing Jervaulx Abbey. The remaining structures include the engine house, chimney, stables, stores, and a wheel pit once used to power pumps with a waterwheel.
The mine eventually closed due to flooding in its lower levels but was once the richest lead mine in Yorkshire. Today, the Keldheads Lane lead smelt mill is a Scheduled Monument. However, it faces slow decay due to invasive vegetation and structural deterioration. Conservation efforts are underway to protect and preserve the site’s historical significance.
After leaving Tullis Cote, I head west and arrive at the eastern end of Preston-under-Scar. The Domesday Book records the village as belonging to Thorfin of Ravensworth, with Count Alan of Bedale as the tenant-in-chief. The village’s name derives from a combination of Old English and Old Norse words, translating to ‘Priest’s farm under the rock’. By 2011, the population had grown to 170 from 120 in 2001.
Historically, Preston-under-Scar was part of the Wapentake of Hang West and the parish of Wensley. Without a church of its own, the village’s worshippers traditionally attended services at Wensley Church. In 1862, St Margaret’s Mission Room was built, providing a local place of worship. This Grade II listed building still holds services twice a month. At the village’s western end, I follow a public footpath across fields, recross the Wensleydale Railway, and eventually arrive at Wood End Lane.
On Wood End Lane, I pause for a rest on a bench in a small walled garden opposite St Mary’s Church, just outside Redmire. This peaceful spot offers a lovely opportunity to reflect and recharge during my Wensleydale walk.
Wensleydale Walk: St Mary’s Church, Redmire
After my break, I explore St Mary’s Church, which dates to around 1150. The church comprises a nave and a chancel with a bellcote. From the mid-13th century until the Dissolution, one of the canons of Coverham Abbey served this church, living in Redmire at Priory House, which still exists today.
The church features a well-preserved Norman doorway, complete with stone seats outside. According to local lore, the sexton sat here on Midsummer’s Eve to watch for the ghosts of those who would die within the year. Inside, a short stretch of Norman scroll frieze is visible in the north-west corner of the nave. The narrow south wall windows, likely Norman in origin, were rebuilt into their current pointed (lancet) shapes during later renovations.
A projecting corbel above the pulpit on the north wall once carried the rood beam, while the fine timber roof, likely from the 15th century, adds to the church’s medieval charm. The octagonal stone font, dating to the 13th century, has undergone later restoration. In 1894, the church was extensively restored, with changes made to the original structure and furnishings on this and earlier occasions. Above the porch roof, a now-blocked window once illuminated a former choir gallery. On the south wall, a bricked-in low side window, originally shuttered, allowed priests to hear confessions from kneeling penitents outside. These windows were blocked on the orders of Henry VIII. Near this window is a scratch dial, now upside down, which was used to time services in medieval times.
Inside St Mary’s Church are several monuments and the Royal Arms of George I (1720). These arms display the fleurs-de-lys of France, symbolising England’s historic claim to the French throne. This practice persisted until 1801. A memorial honours the Other family, who lived in Redmire from the early 17th century. Across the fields to the north, Elm House, built around 1690, was their home until 1970.
The churchyard contains several fascinating tombstones. Two notable gravestones against the south wall commemorate ‘the goalkeeper of Richmond’ and ‘the soap chandler at Bolton’. Another striking headstone, shaped like a grandfather clock with an inset copper plate dated 1825, reflects the clockmaking heritage of Wensleydale.
The location of St Mary’s Church, far from the main village of Redmire, is somewhat enigmatic. Some suggest that the village was relocated after the plague, while others claim it was originally sited on Redmire Scar, even further away. Regardless of its origins, the church’s isolated position enhances its tranquillity and beauty, although it can create challenges for wintertime services.
After visiting St Mary’s Church, I continue my Wensleydale walk into Redmire. Redmire is a picturesque village in Wensleydale, well worth exploring. The village has appeared in the BBC television series All Creatures Great and Small, starring Christopher Timothy as James Herriot, Robert Hardy as Siegfried Farnon, Peter Davison as Tristan Farnon, and Carol Drinkwater as Helen. In the episode Puppy Love, Redmire was depicted as the location of the Darrowby bus stop, while the local pub, the Bolton Arms, was featured in the episode Beauty of the Beast.
On Redmire’s village green, I find a stone monument topped with a lamp post. Three plaques adorn the structure, marking significant events. The first plaque commemorates Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee in 1887, when the pillar was erected and the village streets were fitted with lamps. The second plaque marks Queen Elizabeth II’s Silver Jubilee in 1977, when an electric lamp was added. The third plaque celebrates the village’s Platinum Jubilee tribute to Queen Elizabeth II in 2022 and commemorates her passing on 8 September 2022.
The Redmire Village Pub, formerly the Bolton Arms, has been welcoming visitors, farmers, gamekeepers, and walkers since the 1750s. Its rustic charm and warmth make it a favourite among those exploring Wensleydale. The pub serves local cask ales from breweries such as Wensleydale Brewery, Yorkshire Dales Brewing, and Black Sheep, along with Hawkstone cider and lager, Cruzcampo, and Guinness. Dogs and muddy boots are always welcome.
After exploring Redmire, I set off for Redmire Force. Heading south along Mill Lane, I follow it to the bottom before turning right after Mill Farm to join a permissive footpath leading to the waterfalls. A wooden signpost on the left marks the path I will take on my return journey.
The permissive path leads through a wooded area and across a small, scenic meadow, eventually reaching the banks of the River Ure. This peaceful stretch of my Wensleydale walk is a highlight, as I approach the waterfalls.
The River Ure is the principal river of Wensleydale. Located in North Yorkshire, the River Ure stretches approximately 74 miles (119 kilometres) from its source on Abbotside Common to the point where it becomes the River Ouse. Unlike most Yorkshire Dales, which are typically named after their rivers—such as Swaledale (River Swale) and Wharfedale (River Wharfe)—Wensleydale derives its name from the village of Wensley. Historically, the valley was referred to as Yoredale, directly referencing the River Ure. Over time, however, the prominence of the village of Wensley, especially after it was granted a market charter in 1202, led to the valley adopting the name Wensleydale.
Before reaching Redmire Force, I cross Apedale Beck, a tributary of the River Ure. The crossing is made via a makeshift footbridge consisting of a narrow metal girder, possibly repurposed from construction materials. The girder’s damp surface, made slippery by recent rainfall, requires careful footing as I cross.
The River Ure’s name has deep historical roots. Its earliest recorded name, ‘Earp’, dates back to around 1025. By 1140, it was documented as ‘Jor’, influencing names like Jervaulx Abbey. Later, it became known as ‘Yore’, with the name likely deriving from the Brittonic term Isurā, meaning ‘strong or swift river’. This aligns with the Roman settlement of Aldborough, known as Isurium. At this location, Apedale Beck flows rapidly into the River Ure, both bodies of water swollen by heavy rainfall.
I finally reach Redmire Force, a stunning series of waterfalls along the River Ure. While views of the falls are partially obscured by overhanging branches, they remain an impressive sight. The falls consist of three distinct drops, with the water cascading over rocky ledges in a golden-brown hue, coloured by the peat moorlands upstream.
Looking across the river from Redmire Force, I see exposed rock formations on the southern bank, which I believe are known as Force Scar. The dramatic cascades of water over the rocky ledges create a vibrant and picturesque scene, making this a particularly memorable moment on my Wensleydale walk.
After taking in the sights at Redmire Force, I retrace my steps to the permissive path. Instead of turning left up Mill Lane, I continue straight along the public footpath towards Well Lane, enjoying the continuation of my journey.
The narrow footpath provides an elevated view of the River Ure below. This charming section of the walk is often overlooked but offers stunning views of the river winding through the Wensleydale valley. Along the way, I find a bench, which provides an excellent spot to rest and take in the scenery.
The elevated footpath above the River Ure eventually transitions into a wider stone track as it veers inland. This track passes a farmhouse and continues towards Well Lane, leading me further along my route.
After reaching Well Lane, I follow a footpath that crosses multiple fields in a south-easterly direction. This route eventually brings me into a large wooded area known as West Wood. The forest track is lined with trees on both sides, and is a tranquil and easy-to-navigate pathway.
Walking through West Wood, I catch glimpses of the landscape through occasional gaps in the trees. From the forest track, I look south-west and can see Penhill in the distance, with the village of West Witton nestled at its base. Below, the River Ure is also visible, winding its way through the valley.
Emerging from West Wood, the track takes me past Bolton Hall. The Bolton Estate has belonged to the Scrope family since medieval times, centred around Bolton Castle. Following the death of Emanuel Scrope, 1st Earl of Sunderland, in 1630, the estate passed to his eldest illegitimate daughter, Mary, who married Charles, Marquess of Winchester. Bolton Hall was built for Charles in 1675, and he later became the 1st Duke of Bolton. The estate was passed down through the Dukes of Bolton until 1794, when the dukedom became extinct. The estate then transferred to Thomas Orde-Powlett, the current Baron Bolton, whose family still resides at Bolton Hall.
From Bolton Hall, the path becomes a concrete road leading directly east back to Wensley. Lined with huge trees on either side, this section of the walk is especially pleasant, offering a comfortable return to the village.
I pass Middle Lodge and enjoy a leisurely stroll through Wensley Park, a peaceful section of the Bolton Estate. With the end of my Wensleydale walk drawing near, I savour the final moments of this idyllic setting.
Exiting Wensley Park, I pass East Lodge once again and return to the village of Wensley. A right turn onto the main road takes me back to the car park where my walk began. This incredible Wensleydale walk spans nearly 9 miles (14.5 kilometres) and highlights the beauty, history, and charm of the Yorkshire Dales.
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