Wharfedale Walk: From Buckden, Explore Starbotton and Kettlewell

This Wharfedale Walk Showcases the Best of the Yorkshire Dales Countryside

This Wharfedale walk begins in the charming village of Buckden, nestled within the beautiful valley of Upper Wharfedale. You’ll visit the nearby villages of Starbotton and Kettlewell as part of a figure-of-eight route, designed to offer a perfect balance of sweeping hillside views and peaceful riverside strolls.

Start your walk from the Yorkshire Dales National Park car park, situated at the northern end of Buckden village. It’s a convenient pay-and-display site behind the former St Michael’s School Room, with plenty of parking spaces, public toilets, a small village shop, and a traditional pub nearby.

From the car park, make your way to the northern end where you’ll spot a gate and a signpost pointing towards Cray High Bridge and Buckden Pike. Pass through the gate and turn right, following the path signposted to Buckden Lead Mine and Starbotton. Keep to the path beside the dry stone wall until you reach Buckden Beck. Cross the beck, head uphill, and turn right again, continuing on the signposted path to Starbotton and the lead mine.

As you continue south, you’ll walk along a grassy path high above the village, which remains visible down in the valley to your right. The route becomes stony and begins to climb more steeply. After roughly three-quarters of a mile (1.2 kilometres), the terrain softens back to grass and swings left in a broad U-bend. Follow the signpost to the lead mine and stay beside the dry stone wall until you reach a wooden post marked with yellow public footpath arrows.

Turn right here and traverse the hillside, crossing a stile before continuing south along a well-defined grassy footpath. This stretch lasts for about one and three-quarter miles (2.8 kilometres), with regular waymarkers to guide you. The path then gradually descends into the village of Starbotton.

Upon reaching a stone track, turn right and follow it downhill. The track becomes concrete and zigzags into the heart of Starbotton. Cross the stone bridge over Cam Gill Beck, then immediately turn right along the tarmac lane leading to the B6160. Turn left onto the road and continue through the village.

Once you’ve passed through Starbotton, turn right onto a bridleway signposted to Arncliffe, Kettlewell and Buckden. Follow this until you cross a footbridge over the River Wharfe. At the far side, turn left and join the Dales Way to continue your scenic Wharfedale walk. This riverside stretch takes you south towards Kettlewell for nearly two miles (3.2 kilometres), with yellow directional waymarkers along the way.

Eventually, the path brings you to the main road in Kettlewell, roughly halfway through your Wharfedale walk. Turn left and follow the road across the bridge over the River Wharfe. Continue past the Yorkshire Dales National Park car park on your left, then take the first road on your right just before the next bridge, signposted to Kettlewell Camping.

Follow the road past the Kettlewell War Memorial on your left. At the next junction, where you’ll find a small seating area, turn left towards the church and the Dales Way. Just after the Kings Head pub, turn left again and cross the bridge. You’ll pass the Kettlewell Village Store on your left. Keep going straight ahead, past the Kettlewell Youth Hostel on your right, until you reach the end of the road. Here, turn right in front of Cam Lodge and follow the stony track uphill.

As you climb, you’ll pass the Kettlewell Weather Stone on your left. Keep to the public footpath signposted to Starbotton. The grassy path curves to the left, tracing the edge of a dry stone wall. The next section is generally level, following the natural contours of the hillside for about one and three-quarter miles (2.8 kilometres). Yellow footpath waymarkers will continue to guide you.

As you approach Starbotton again, turn left and cross a stile. Follow the path downhill across two open fields, arriving back at the B6160. From here, rejoin the familiar bridleway you walked earlier, again signposted to Arncliffe, Kettlewell and Buckden. Cross the River Wharfe using the footbridge and turn right, rejoining the Dales Way for the final leg of your Wharfedale walk.

The last stretch takes you north through the valley for roughly one and three-quarter miles (2.8 kilometres). The route eventually merges with a wider stone track. Stay on this path, passing a large stone barn on your left. A short distance later, turn right onto a public footpath signposted as the Dales Way and head downhill towards the river.

Continue along the edge of the field, with the River Wharfe on your right. After about half a mile (800 metres), the path brings you to Dubb’s Lane. Turn right here, cross the road bridge over the river, and return to Buckden to complete your rewarding Wharfedale walk.

Wharfedale Walk: Distance, Duration, Statistics

Recommended Ordnance Survey Map

The best map to use on this walk is the Ordnance Survey map of the Yorkshire Dales Northern & Central Area, reference OS Explorer OL30, scale 1:25,000. It clearly displays footpaths, rights of way, open access land and vegetation on the ground, making it ideal for walking, running and hiking. The map can be purchased from Amazon in either a standard, paper version or a weatherproof, laminated version, as shown below.

About Wharfedale

Wharfedale is one of the most well-known valleys in the Yorkshire Dales. It begins in North Yorkshire and flows south-east into West Yorkshire, forming the upper valley of the River Wharfe.

The Geography and Villages of Wharfedale

Along the way, it passes through a series of attractive towns and villages, including Buckden, Kettlewell, Conistone, Grassington, Hebden, Bolton Abbey, Addingham, Ilkley, Burley-in-Wharfedale, Otley, Pool-in-Wharfedale, Arthington, Collingham and Wetherby. Beyond Wetherby, the valley opens out and becomes part of the Vale of York.

The section between the river’s source and Addingham is known as Upper Wharfedale. This area lies entirely within North Yorkshire and sits inside the Yorkshire Dales National Park. The uppermost 15 miles, known as Langstrothdale, include small settlements like Beckermonds, Yockenthwaite and Hubberholme — the latter known for its historic church and the grave of writer J. B. Priestley.

As the river turns south, it flows through a green, wide valley with limestone cliffs, such as Kilnsey Crag, and patches of woodland — a rare sight in many parts of the Dales. This part of Wharfedale is particularly scenic and popular with walkers.

Further downstream, the valley widens and turns east. This area, sometimes called Lower Wharfedale, stretches across both North Yorkshire and West Yorkshire and includes the towns of Ilkley, Otley and Wetherby. The north side of the valley, opposite Ilkley and Otley, lies within the Nidderdale Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

The Natural and Historical Story of Wharfedale

The Yorkshire Dales Rivers Trust helps to protect Wharfedale, along with nearby valleys such as Wensleydale, Swaledale and Nidderdale. Their work supports the health of the river and its surroundings from the hilltops all the way to the Humber Estuary.

The shape of the valley we see today was formed during the last Ice Age, around 18,000 to 12,000 years ago. A glacier carved out the U-shaped valley, following a route that had already been shaped by a much older river system.

Wharfedale has been home to people for thousands of years. Archaeological finds show that the area has seen human activity since the Neolithic period. Over time, it has been shaped by Celtic, Roman and Anglo-Saxon cultures. The Romans even built a road over Stake Moss into what is now Bainbridge in Wensleydale. Many village names in Upper Wharfedale come from Anglo-Saxon roots, showing the lasting influence of that time.

The River Wharfe, Local Life and the Geology of Wharfedale

The name ‘Wharfedale’ comes from the River Wharfe, which flows through the valley. The name likely comes from either the Old English Weorf or the Old Norse Hverfr, both meaning ‘winding river’. The river begins in Beckermonds, where two smaller streams — Oughtershaw Beck and Green Field Beck — meet. These rise from the Pennine watershed, about 4 miles north-east of Ribblehead.

The valley runs for around 50 miles between Oughtershaw Moss and Wetherby. The uppermost part is called Langstrothdale, and below Beckermonds, the river is officially named the Wharfe. Wetherby is traditionally seen as the end of Wharfedale, although the river continues through the Vale of York.

Over the centuries, Wharfedale has been used mainly for farming. Today, the landscape is filled with dry stone walls and stone barns, giving the valley a distinct and historic character.

The geology of the valley changes as you move through it. In Upper Wharfedale, the landscape is mostly carboniferous limestone, part of the Yoredale series. Further down the valley, around Ilkley and Otley, the underlying rock is millstone grit. A famous example of this can be seen at the Cow and Calf rocks on Ilkley Moor. An interesting note in the Bramley Almanac from 1931 also mentions an earthquake in Wharfedale on 15 December 1859.

Wharfedale Walk: My Photos

Starting my Wharfedale walk in Buckden, I soon gain a little height on the elevated path running along the eastern side of the village towards the old lead mine. From here, I enjoy a fantastic view of Buckden’s stone cottages nestled in the valley. Looking west from my vantage point, I can see Birks Fell rising beyond the village.

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Just a little further along the path, I’m treated to a stunning panoramic view of the entire village of Buckden, with Birks Fell towering in the background. Glancing north-west through the valley, I can just make out the village of Hubberholme. This area between Buckden and Hubberholme roughly marks the point where Upper Wharfedale transitions into Langstrothdale. I love this view — the village is surrounded by a patchwork of lush green fields that ripple over the rolling hills.

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As I progress south along the path from Buckden, the incline steepens and I continue to gain height. Looking west across the Wharfedale valley, the views open up completely. Neatly divided fields stretch into the distance, separated by traditional Yorkshire Dales dry stone walls. Beyond these fields, the slopes of Birks Fell rise dramatically.

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What a view this is as I ascend along this superb path. Glancing back, I get a brilliant north-western view down to Buckden. It’s now much easier to see how Upper Wharfedale curves westward and merges into Langstrothdale. The valley’s head is backed by the expanse of Chapel Moor. It’s an absolutely cracking start to my Wharfedale walk.

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After walking a couple of miles south across the moorland, I begin to descend towards Starbotton. Along the way, I come across a glorious old signpost — offering directions with delightful precision. Starbotton? Three-eighths of a mile. Buckden Lead Mine? One and seven-eighths. Whoever carved this clearly took pride in getting the distances spot-on. No rounding up here — just pure Yorkshire accuracy. It’s a lovely reminder that even the signposts in the Dales have character.

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As I descend, the village of Starbotton comes clearly into view. Like Buckden, it sits within a picturesque patchwork of wall-enclosed green fields. Scattered throughout the fields are old stone barns, adding charm to the scene. In the background, the slopes of Firth Fell and Moor End Fell rise steeply.

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The moorland path transitions into a stony track and eventually a more solid concrete road as I descend into Starbotton. That marks roughly the first quarter of my Wharfedale walk — and what a wonderful section it’s been so far.

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In Starbotton, I weave through the quaint, picturesque cottages and houses until I reach the main road — the B6160 — which runs through the heart of the village. I turn left and continue my walk south along the road.

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I pass the Fox & Hounds in Starbotton, a family-run pub with deep roots. Originally a farmworker’s cottage, it became a public house in the 1840s and has been welcoming visitors ever since. Its whitewashed stone exterior and traditional architecture are beautifully preserved. Inside, many original features remain, including stone-flagged floors, wooden beams, and a large stone fireplace. It’s a warm day, and people are gathered outside, enjoying refreshments in the beer garden.

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Leaving the village behind, I make a right turn off the B6160 and follow a beautiful path bordered by dry stone walls. This leads me down to the footbridge over the River Wharfe, where the next stage of my Wharfedale walk begins.

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After crossing the footbridge, I begin the next leg of my walk along the Dales Way, which traces the course of the River Wharfe as it flows gently through Wharfedale towards Kettlewell.

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The River Wharfe flows quietly beside me, its surface shimmering with reflections of the bright blue sky. The riverbanks are soft and grassy, fringed with reeds and rough pasture where sheep graze nearby. Across the water, the steep-sided slopes below Cam Head and Cam Pasture are marked by striking rocky outcrops.

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The river meanders tightly through the landscape, its banks revealing patches of exposed shingle. Boulders dot the shallows, while small gravel bars and grassy inlets form along the curves. Years of seasonal flow have shaped the River Wharfe into a subtle yet beautiful pattern — a defining feature of this stretch of the Wharfedale walk.

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Continuing along the Dales Way, the grassy path transforms into a classic Yorkshire Dales stony track, bordered once again by dry stone walls. It’s a picture-perfect scene that invites me to slow down and appreciate every detail. Not too much further to go now before I reach Kettlewell.

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Upon arriving in Kettlewell, I begin to make my way through the village. I pass a small but poignant memorial garden that acts both as a place of remembrance and a living connection to the village’s past. It is neatly enclosed by dry stone walls, entered through a wrought iron gate, and enhanced by flowers, trees, and limestone rocks. The garden contains two important historical features: the village stocks and the war memorial cross.

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At the centre of the garden stands the Kettlewell War Memorial Cross, an elegant stone structure rising ten feet (3 metres) tall. It consists of an octagonal shaft with a simple cross mounted on a tapered square plinth, all set atop a three-stepped sandstone base. Originally erected after the First World War to honour the men of Kettlewell and Starbotton who gave their lives, the memorial was later updated to include those lost during the Second World War. The inscriptions are still clear and legible, listing nine names in total — six from the First World War and three from the Second.

The men commemorated from the 1914–1918 war are:

• P. Beresford
• J. Cockerill
• J. Holdsworth
• M. Holdsworth
• G. C. H. C. Hyne
• H. Mallinson

And from the 1939–1945 war:

• J. Metcalfe
• R. D. Tennant
• W. H. Townson

The cross continues to be the focal point for Remembrance Day services, when wreaths of poppies are laid at its base and the villagers gather to reflect on the cost of war and the enduring value of peace.

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Just a few steps from the war memorial cross, within the same garden, stand the Kettlewell village stocks — a rare and well-preserved remnant of the days when public punishment was part of local justice. Dating back centuries, stocks like these were used across England to publicly shame petty criminals. Offenders would have their ankles — and sometimes wrists — locked into wooden holes, leaving them exposed to the elements and the scorn (or missiles) of passers-by. Their use declined during the 19th century, with the last recorded use in 1872, but Kettlewell’s stocks have survived as a vivid symbol of social history. Nowadays, during the village’s well-known Scarecrow Festival, they’re more likely to host a scarecrow than a scoundrel.

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After visiting the memorial cross, I come to a junction in the village. In the centre of this junction is a gravelled seating area, where a tall pole supports a traditional weather vane. At this point, I turn left and walk along the road towards the church.

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St Mary’s Church, Kettlewell

I step into St Mary’s Church in Kettlewell for a proper look around. The original Norman church was founded around 1120 by the de Arches family and was a modest structure with an aisle-less nave and no tower. Today, the only surviving feature from that period is the font, carved with a boar’s head motif. Around 1820, the Norman church was demolished and replaced by a new building designed by Thomas Anderson. Later, between 1882 and 1885, a major reconstruction by architects T. H. and F. Healey saw the nave and chancel rebuilt in a late Gothic style, while the Georgian tower from the earlier phase was preserved.

The church’s exterior reflects its layered history. The west tower, a remnant of the 1820 design, features three distinct stages: a round-arched south doorway with a keystone, string courses, pointed arch windows in the middle stage, and bell openings with hood moulds at the top, crowned by an embattled parapet with corner pinnacles. The nave and chancel windows, set in the Perpendicular style, fill the interior with light, enhancing the peaceful and reflective atmosphere — a welcome pause along my Wharfedale walk.

Inside the church, the nave’s roof is supported by six collar beam trusses resting on carved corbels, leading to a chancel ceiling decorated with painted shields and chevron patterns. The wide chancel arch frames the sanctuary, drawing the eye towards a series of stained glass windows. Three of these, dating from the mid-20th century, commemorate individuals who died during the two World Wars. One window, signed by William Morris in 1953, reflects the artistic sensibilities of the era with contemporary detailing.

The East Window serves as a poignant memorial to Charles Cutcliffe Hyne, a young lieutenant killed in action in 1916. It depicts the risen Christ overlooking a battlefield, symbolising hope and resurrection amidst the devastation of war. The Holdsworth family also commissioned two memorial windows in honour of their sons, John and Michael, who both died during the Second World War. These windows feature figures such as St Francis and St Hubert, evoking themes of protection, peace, and compassion.

One of the most significant historical features inside the church is the early 12th-century font, believed to be the only surviving element from the original Norman building. This circular font is decorated with roll moulding and acanthus-like stiff leaf ornamentation and rests on four chamfered legs. Some of the motifs are reminiscent of pre-Conquest carving styles found in nearby regions, adding to its historical importance.

St Mary’s churchyard has been thoughtfully developed to serve not only as a place of remembrance but also as a haven for wildlife. Along the winding paths, wooden boards known as ‘Words in Wood’ are positioned, bearing excerpts from spiritual writings and poetry to encourage reflection. The churchyard also includes wildflower meadows, and local children are involved in creating habitats for hedgehogs, insects, and birds — a lovely blend of heritage and nature that adds another dimension to my Wharfedale walk.

In 2020, a limestone labyrinth was added to the south-west corner of the churchyard, offering visitors a peaceful space for contemplation. A sign nearby invites walkers to step into ’an ancient space for the soul’ and to let go of expectation and noise. The winding path leads to a quiet centre where one can pause, listen inwardly, and reflect.

St Mary’s Church remains a central part of the Kettlewell community, offering regular services and hosting events that strengthen both spiritual life and local connections. With its rich history, architectural detail, and dedication to conserving nature and memory, it stands as a treasured landmark in the heart of the Yorkshire Dales.

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Just across from the church, I visit The King’s Head, a traditional pub and inn with deep roots in village life. This Grade II listed building dates back to the mid-18th century and features classic elements such as a three-storey layout, rendered rubble stone with ashlar detailing, and a traditional slate roof. The inn offers six en-suite rooms — five doubles and one twin — each individually styled with views of either the church or the dramatic surrounding hills. The menu focuses on modern British cuisine, with dishes like steak and local ale pie, Wensleydale-filled chicken breast, and steaks cooked to order. Everything is made from scratch using locally sourced ingredients. The bar serves a well-chosen selection of local cask ales and a carefully curated wine list.

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Around the corner from The King’s Head, I pass the Kettlewell Youth Hostel on Westgate. This early 20th-century building — dating from either 1903 or 1915 — has played several roles in the village over the years. It began as a guest house run by Mrs Carradice, the schoolmaster’s wife, before becoming a bakery, café, village shop, and post office. In the 1940s, the Youth Hostels Association (YHA) purchased the property, then known as Whernside House, to replace a smaller hostel in a former schoolroom. This marked the start of its association with hosting travellers exploring the Yorkshire Dales. In 2015, the YHA sold the hostel due to financial pressures. Saul and Floss Ward bought the property and undertook extensive renovations, boosting visitor numbers from around 1000 to over 4000 annually. Today, Kettlewell Hostel offers welcoming and comfortable accommodation, a strong emphasis on locally sourced food, and a friendly atmosphere — continuing its legacy as an important part of the community.

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Just before leaving the village of Kettlewell, I notice an amusing sign — a brilliant bit of village humour that’s simple, spot-on, and very Yorkshire. It reads:

KETTLEWELL WEATHER STONE
Stone wet – Raining
Stone dry – Not raining
Shadow on tree – Sunny
Stone white on top – Snowing
Cannot see stone – Foggy
Stone swinging – Windy
Stone bouncing up and down – Earthquake
Stone gone – Tornado
Stone under water – Flood

It’s a lovely light-hearted moment, and it marks roughly the halfway point of my Wharfedale walk.

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From Kettlewell, I begin my return to Starbotton. The path follows the contour lines along the lower slopes of Cam Pasture, and it’s a brilliant stretch of walking. To my right, the hillside rises steeply. It’s a fascinating area — scattered with large limestone boulders, old twisted hawthorns, and larger trees with gnarled, contorted branches.

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The lowest slopes beneath Cam Pasture are quite steep, but the path, for the most part, follows the contour lines. There are only a few small ups and downs, making it an easy route to walk and simple to navigate. A number of stiles break up the route, but nothing too challenging. The bare branches of the trees stretch against the clear spring sky, their twisted limbs standing out starkly and beautifully — like sculptures in the landscape.

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The hillside path between Kettlewell and Starbotton is about two miles (3.2 kilometres) in length. Although it never climbs particularly high above the valley floor, the views over Wharfedale are still spectacular. It’s a definite highlight of my Wharfedale walk — peaceful, scenic, and packed with character.

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I reach a broken-down barn, and just beyond it, I spot the rooftops of Starbotton’s houses and cottages nestled in the valley. The B6160 weaves through the valley below, alongside the River Wharfe — the same river I followed earlier on my way to Kettlewell. Returning to Starbotton marks the point where I’m about three-quarters of the way round my Wharfedale walk.

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After passing through Starbotton, I cross the River Wharfe again using the footbridge and rejoin the Dales Way. This time, I’m heading north, back towards Buckden. It’s a gentle, familiar stretch of my Wharfedale walk, running close to the riverbank.

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This riverside section of the Dales Way is tranquil and filled with quiet beauty. The River Wharfe is calm and clear, winding its way through a soft, green landscape edged with early spring growth. To my right, a line of leafless trees leans gently towards the water, their reflections mirrored in the still surface. To the left, wide open pastures stretch out, dotted with dry stone walls and distant walkers.

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As I approach one of the river’s sweeping meanders, I look east towards the hills on the opposite side of the valley. From here, I can just make out the path I followed earlier when I descended into Starbotton. It’s satisfying to see how the day’s journey has come full circle.

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A National Trust sign along the Dales Way reminds me that I am firmly within Upper Wharfedale. It’s always nice to see these little touches of stewardship along the route — a quiet nod to the care taken to preserve the landscape for everyone walking the same path.

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One of the most iconic features of the Yorkshire Dales comes into view — a solitary field barn, set against the backdrop of Starbotton Fell. I climbed out of Buckden over this fell at the very start of my Wharfedale walk. These traditional barns were built for efficiency, with hay stored upstairs and livestock sheltered below, allowing farmers to keep everything close to hand during the harsh winter months.

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Almost back in Buckden now, I notice a quietly poetic little scene that feels like something out of a folk tale. On the banks of the River Wharfe, two old metal angling signs once nailed to a tree — boldly stating ’Bradford City Angling Association – Private Fishing’ — have almost completely vanished into the tree’s trunk. Over decades, the bark has grown around them, folding them into itself like forgotten relics. The metal is corroded, the lettering barely visible, and the whole thing has a surreal quality — a meeting of human presence and nature’s quiet patience. It’s a powerful reminder of the slow, persistent way nature reclaims what we leave behind.

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The beautiful triple-arched stone road bridge across the River Wharfe marks the point where I leave the Dales Way and begin to follow the road back into Buckden.

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I finish my Wharfedale walk back at the car park in Buckden and take a moment to sit down in the lovely shelter next to it. There’s a great little display with information about the area, and it gives me time to reflect on the day. It’s been a fabulous walk — full of history, character, and stunning scenery from start to finish.

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