Swaledale Walk: Moorland and Riverside Circular Trail from Reeth

Explore the Yorkshire Dales on a Scenic and Varied Swaledale Walk

Begin your Swaledale walk by parking in the centre of Reeth. Use the cobbled parking area in front of The Black Bull Hotel and The Kings Arms. Stand facing The Black Bull, then look to your left. You’ll see Cuckoo Hill View Ice Cream Parlour and The White House. Walk across the cobbles in that direction to reach Anvil Square, which lies between The White House and Hudson House.

Keep to the left-hand side of the small, triangular village green, then follow the public footpath that runs between Walpardu and Metcalfes Farm. This narrow path leads you between houses and gardens to reach Back Lane, a quiet tarmac road.

Turn right and walk to the next junction. Go straight on, following signs for the Swing Bridge. Pass the medical centre and the children’s play area on your right as you continue along the lane. After the final house on the left, look for a signposted footpath to the Swing Bridge. Take this path, which descends gradually to the River Swale. At the bottom, cross the metal Swing Bridge.

On the far side, go straight ahead. Follow the public footpath signed for Harkerside. Climb the grassy slope towards the corner of the field, then continue on the path marked for Harkerside Place.

Cross the next large field, following public footpath signs and waymarkers. Walk past the farm buildings, which remain on your left, then turn left onto a stone track. Go through the gate and turn right. This leads you onto a wide stone track heading towards the barns of the farmyard. As you approach the barns, turn left and walk up a stony track.

At the top, you’ll meet a minor tarmac road. Turn left for a brief stretch, then take the grassy footpath rising on your right. After a short distance, the path forks. Do not take the right-hand track towards the barn and gate. Instead, keep left and follow the moorland path uphill. The gradient is steeper now, but the path is well-defined.

Eventually, you’ll reach a clear crossroads of paths. Turn right and follow the level stony path westwards. The route now skirts the hillside, following its contours with wide views over the valley below. Keep going along this steady path for about a mile. You’ll pass a grassy mound topped with a pile of stones—a good point of reference. Eventually, you’ll reach a broad stony track.

Cross straight over and continue along the grassy bridleway ahead. The route climbs steadily towards a black-painted wooden shooting lodge, perched on the moorland slope. At the lodge, turn right onto a wide stone track. This marks roughly a quarter of the way through your Swaledale walk.

Carry on along this track in a south-westerly direction. The path crosses Whitaside Moor for nearly two miles, offering open views and traces of the area’s lead mining history. Eventually, you’ll reach a landscape of spoil heaps and earth mounds—remnants of disused lead mines. At this point, turn right and begin descending on a stony track heading north-west.

Follow this downhill track for about half a mile until you reach a quiet road called High Lane. Turn left, then almost immediately right into the entrance of Bank Top House and Robson House, following a sign for the public footpath to Isles Bridge. Walk down the concrete track and through Bank Top House Farm. Continue downhill until the track bends sharply right. On this bend, ignore the large metal gate.

Instead, go through a small wooden gate in the dry stone wall, marked with a yellow footpath waymarker. Keep heading downhill, crossing grassy fields and following further waymarkers. Soon, you’ll pass a roofless, abandoned barn. Go through a gap in the wall and continue downhill towards the trees, with a dry stone wall on your left. At the bottom, go through a gate to reach Haverdale Beck and its series of small waterfalls.

Cross the beck via the footbridge. Then follow the path uphill on the opposite side of the valley to reach a minor road. Turn right and walk down to The Old Parsonage. Stay on the road as it bends to the right and follow it towards Low Houses. Once in the tiny hamlet, pass through and take the left-hand track, signposted Swale Trail and Low Whita.

You’re now about three-quarters of the way through your Swaledale walk. Follow this track, known as Low Lane, for roughly a mile and a half. The route winds gently across the hillside, eventually reaching a minor road by Low Row Bunkhouse. Turn left here and follow the road signed ‘ST’ for Swale Trail. Continue past the left-hand turning to Reeth, instead going straight on towards Grinton.

Cross a cattle grid, then a small stone bridge. The road begins to climb again, and you’ll see a barn on your left. Just beyond this, turn left onto a public footpath signposted to Reeth. This grassy path runs beside a dry stone wall and quickly merges with a bridleway. Keep going straight on, following signs for the Swale Trail. The bridleway passes Stubbin Farm on your right, then descends to the banks of the River Swale.

Walk beside the river for about three-quarters of a mile. The tranquil riverside path brings you back to the Swing Bridge. Cross over and turn right to retrace your steps uphill along the footpath. This final stretch leads you back into the centre of Reeth, where your Swaledale walk comes to a close.

Swaledale Walk: Distance, Duration, Statistics

Recommended Ordnance Survey Map

The best map to use on this walk is the Ordnance Survey map of the Yorkshire Dales Northern & Central Area, reference OS Explorer OL30, scale 1:25,000. It clearly displays footpaths, rights of way, open access land and vegetation on the ground, making it ideal for walking, running and hiking. The map can be purchased from Amazon in either a standard, paper version or a weatherproof, laminated version, as shown below.

About Swaledale

Swaledale is a valley in North Yorkshire and one of the celebrated Yorkshire Dales, which form part of the Pennines. It lies within the Yorkshire Dales National Park and takes its name from the River Swale, which flows through its length. Swaledale is the most northerly of the major dales, stretching broadly from west to east.

The dale begins on the high moors along the Cumbria–Yorkshire boundary at the watershed of Northern England, and extends eastwards to the market town of Richmond, where it meets the lowlands. At the head of Swaledale, Nine Standards Rigg rises prominently on the watershed. This distinctive ridge is crowned by nine ancient cairns standing tall on the skyline.

South and east of Nine Standards Rigg, several smaller dales—Birkdale, Little Sleddale, Great Sleddale, and Whitsundale—converge at the small village of Keld, forming the narrow upper valley of Swaledale. From Keld, the dale runs briefly south before turning east at Thwaite. It then widens gradually as it flows through Muker, Gunnerside, Low Row, Healaugh, and Reeth—the starting point for this Swaledale walk.

The Pennine section of the valley ends at Richmond, where an important medieval castle still dominates the scene from a high cliff above an ancient river crossing. Beyond Richmond, the valley sides level out as the River Swale flows through lowland farmland. It eventually joins the River Ure east of Boroughbridge at a place known as Swale Nab. The Ure then becomes the River Ouse, which later merges with the Trent to form the Humber Estuary.

To the north, Arkengarthdale and its tributary, Arkle Beck, join Swaledale at Reeth, where this Swaledale walk begins. To the south lies Wensleydale, famous for its cheese and running parallel to Swaledale. The two dales are separated by a ridge that includes Great Shunner Fell and are connected by the Buttertubs Pass.

Swaledale is a classic limestone Yorkshire dale, known for its narrow valley-bottom road, green meadows and fellside fields, white sheep, and networks of dry stone walls etched into the glacier-formed slopes. Higher up, the moorland skyline darkens the horizon. The upper reaches of the dale are especially striking, dotted with large old limestone field barns and carpeted with wild flowers. This floral richness is due to traditional hay meadow management, where grass cutting is delayed until wild plants have had time to seed.

Scars of the 18th- and 19th-century lead mining industry are still occasionally visible from the valley-bottom road. Crumbling stone buildings from this period blend gradually into the surrounding landscape, weathered into the same tones as the hillsides themselves.

In 1989, Swaledale and neighbouring Arkengarthdale were designated as a Barns and Walls Conservation Area. It is now the largest conservation area in the United Kingdom.

Swaledale Walk: My Photos

After parking up in Reeth, I begin my Swaledale walk by making my way over to Anvil Square, a quiet little corner near Hudson House. A narrow public footpath slips between the houses on the left-hand side of the triangular village green, almost hidden from view.

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The footpath weaves between gardens and houses, guiding me gently downhill until I emerge on Back Lane, skirting the southern edge of the village.

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Only minutes after leaving Reeth, I’m already greeted by the wide open views of Harkerside Moor to the south. That’s where I’m headed for the first leg of my Swaledale walk—although I won’t be venturing all the way to the summit, known as High Harker Hill.

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Reeth Swing Bridge

I follow a pleasant, meandering path from the village towards the River Swale and soon arrive at Reeth Swing Bridge. This modest-looking bridge carries a dramatic backstory, shaped by the force of nature itself. Built in 1920 to connect the parishes of Reeth and Grinton, the original suspension bridge—affectionately known as the ‘Swing Bridge’—was funded by the local community and stood proud for 80 years. It endured multiple floods, proving its resilience and importance.

Then, on the night of 19 September 2000, disaster struck. Torrential rain caused the River Swale, one of England’s fastest rising rivers, to swell by up to three metres in just 20 minutes. An uprooted tree collided with the bridge’s centre, shattering it and tearing apart its suspension cables and stone abutments.

Flooding is a constant feature in this part of Swaledale, where the river shifts and reshapes its course with unsettling ease. This unruly behaviour has long been recognised. As far back as the 1700s, a traveller wrote that ‘The Swale rusheth rather than runneth’—a fitting observation. Generations of lead mining and peatland drainage have changed the way water drains from the moors above. Today, the added pressures of climate change may well be making extreme flooding even more frequent.

In the wake of the 2000 flood, the River Swale Regeneration Project set out to better understand the river and manage the risks. Their work led to the construction of a near-identical replacement bridge in 2002—one that honours the past but looks to the future.

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The path climbs steadily, bringing me to around 320 metres in elevation. I contour along the northern slopes of High Harker Hill, enjoying a fine stretch of walking under a bright sky. The view opens up to the north-east, revealing Reeth nestled below the steep, rugged outline of Fremington Edge.

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As I continue, the path delivers more rewarding views—this time to the village of Healaugh, tucked beneath the rise of Calver Hill. Only a mile west of Reeth, Healaugh takes its name from the Saxon word Heah, meaning a high forest clearing.

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Aside from an early climb up from Harkerside Place, my route across Harkerside Moor keeps close to the contours, making for comfortable walking. Eventually, I reach a final ascent that brings me up to a shooting lodge on Blue Hill. From here, I join a broader track that leads me onward to Whitaside Moor.

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The track winds onwards, arriving at a spot marked on the map as Green Hill Ends. A scattering of rocks and boulders lies just off to one side—perhaps the remains of an old lime kiln or some forgotten structure. I can’t say for certain, but the landscape here feels storied.

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A short detour leads me to a cairn standing at 459 metres. It’s a superb vantage point. Looking west, the Swaledale valley unfolds below me, with the village of Gunnerside sitting like a quiet sentinel in the distance.

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I continue across Whitaside Moor along a broad, open track. It brings me to the remains of old lead mines, where enormous spoil heaps still scar the hillside. From here, my route begins its descent, eventually merging with High Lane near the farm at High Whitaside.

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The track down is rugged underfoot, bordered by stones and boulders. Bank Top House comes into view ahead—I’ll be passing through the farm shortly. Beyond the buildings, the Swaledale landscape stretches out in all its glory, with green fields and distant hills rolling towards Gunnerside.

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Sunter’s Garage

Reaching High Lane, I pause at a bench placed in just the right spot for a rest. Next to it stands a curious little stone building with a corrugated iron roof. This is Sunter’s Garage—a shelter with a fascinating backstory.

This small structure was once a garage, built for the nearby Robson House Farm at the bottom of the track.

In the late 1940s, when farmer Joseph Sunter bought his first motor car—a Standard Twelve—there was no track leading down to the farm. He had to garage the car up here by the roadside. After locking it away each evening, the family would ride home over the moor on a tractor.

Joseph’s son, Brian, remembers helping to build the garage and the excitement of driving to the Friday market in Leyburn. Eventually, a track was laid down to the farm, and the garage fell into disuse. Years later, Joseph’s grandson Norman and the local ranger had the idea to restore it as a shelter for walkers and cyclists.

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From Sunter’s Garage, I head downhill along a concrete track towards Bank Top House. The route passes between the farmhouse and a cluster of large barns. Ahead of me, dry stone walls enclose rolling fields, while the rougher moorland of Brownsey Moor rises steeply above.

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Once through the farm, I continue descending into the valley. I cross several fields and pass a roofless, crumbling stone barn. Beyond it, the hill known as Blea Barf stands out against the skyline.

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One of the true highlights of this Swaledale walk awaits me: a cluster of small waterfalls on Haverdale Beck, just north-east of Crackpot. It’s a secluded, enchanting spot, almost magical in its stillness. The water is low today, a result of recent dry weather. I’ve seen these falls in full flow before, but even in quieter conditions, it’s a lovely place to pause.

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From the waterfalls, I follow a quiet country lane past a stately Georgian house known as The Old Parsonage. With its symmetrical façade, sash windows, ashlar stonework, and arched doorway, the house is refined yet modest. Once home to a clergyman, it still carries an air of quiet dignity.

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I soon reach Low Houses, a tiny, characterful hamlet. Lawn House stands out—a graceful Georgian home behind stone pillars and wrought-iron gates. Built from local stone, it features classic symmetry, understated elegance, and beautifully proportioned sash windows.

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A little further on, I join Low Lane, a lovely and level track. Along the way, I notice a superb example of traditional hedge-laying. The pleachers—upright stems partly cut and bent over—are anchored by vertical stakes, encouraging thick new growth from below. This centuries-old method revives tired hedges and ensures they remain dense and stock-proof.

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Low Lane remains fairly flat throughout its one-and-a-half-mile length, sitting at around 200 metres. It’s not high, but high enough for sweeping views across Swaledale, including across to Low Row and the hamlet of Feetham.

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I arrive at Scabba Wath Bridge, a graceful, historic stone bridge crossing the River Swale. Grade II listed since April 1986, it dates back to the mid-19th century and features coursed rubble and three handsome segmental arches. The name likely comes from Old Norse or Old English, with ‘wath’ meaning a ford—hinting at a much older crossing point.

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Continuing along the road, I cross Browna Gill Bridge—a small but attractive stone bridge spanning a stream from Harkerside Moor. Built with a single semicircular arch and flanked by parapets of irregular stone, the structure appears recently repaired. I particularly admire the neat line of upright coping stones along the top.

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From Browna Gill Bridge, I continue my Swaledale walk along a peaceful minor road, heading east. Before long, I’ll be turning off and making my way back towards the river.

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A footpath leads me down from the road, following a dry stone wall. It joins a bridleway that guides me past Stubbin Farm and steadily down towards the River Swale.

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The river remains hidden at first, concealed by trees below. Beyond it, I see a series of neatly divided fields enclosed by stone walls, and rising up behind them, the broad slopes of Calver Hill.

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This Swaledale walk continues to delight. I follow a grassy bridleway past Stubbin Farm. To my left, the River Swale reappears, flowing through the valley below. Ahead, the view stretches east beneath the shadow of Fremington Edge.

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At last, I reach the river. The water is low, typical in dry weather, and smooth stones and gravel banks are clearly visible. The river flows gently, crystal-clear, revealing the contours of the bed beneath.

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Today, I won’t be crossing via the stepping stones. On the far side, a path leads towards Healaugh, but that’s not part of my route. Besides, the stepping stones are rarely usable—the water is usually too high.

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The final stretch of my Swaledale walk runs beside the river, and it’s a joy. A peaceful, easy path through beautiful surroundings. The sunshine has stayed with me, making for a perfect end to the day.

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I cross Reeth Swing Bridge once more and retrace my steps along the familiar footpath back into Reeth, where this Swaledale walk comes to a close.

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